How To: Rear Suspn Control Link/Bushing Refurb

[Mark D]

Over the past few months I've been disassembling my suspension so I could get everything sent out to be powder coated. Part of that process involved removing all of the old rubber bushings from the rear suspension links. The baking process for powder coating would destroy the rubber bushings so the old ones had to all be pressed out and replaced with new ones once back from powder coat.

Pressing everything in and out was a challenge at times and I had to get creative with how to remove and reinstall the bushings. I wanted to share what I learned throughout the process since there is almost next to no information in the service manual or here on the forum about how to do it.

For starters I rented several sets of universal kits from Advance Auto / Auto Zone that contained an array of rings and cups designed for pressing ball joints, bearings, and other suspension parts. The bushings used in the DeLorean suspension are apparently an oddball size because none of the parts really lined up well with the outer ring of the bushing or the flat surface of the arms/links to get good support when in the press.

All things considered I didn't think the old links looked that bad and the paint held up well over the years. The rubber in the bushings must be pretty good quality also because I didn't notice any major cracking or dry rot. The rest of my suspension parts were getting powder coated, so I figured I might as well do the rear links as well.



To remove the bushings I found a 27mm socket from harbor freight that was just large enough to press the outer ring of the bushing while maintaining clearance to the inner diameter of the link end. The key thing here is pressing on just the outer ring, otherwise you blow out rubber from the middle and you're left with a ring inside the end of the link that is next to impossible to press out and needs to be cut with a hack saw.



To support the link from below I had to cut a special plate with a 1.625 diameter hole to allow the bushing to press out while having enough surface to support the link.


Once I had all the bushings pressed out I used aircraft stripper to get the thick layer of paint off the links.




I noticed that rust formed where paint had chipped on sharp weld edges or where there were bubbles of weld spatter. To prevent this from happening again I ground all the welds smooth and removed spatter and slag. Then I sand blasted everything to prep for powder coat.



Suspension parts back from powder coat


To press in the new bushings ($14 each from DMCH) I had to fabricate another support plate. This time the hole was slightly smaller (1.31") so it would have more support for the link end and just be large enough so there was clearance for the center section of the bushing to not bottom out when pressing all the way through.


On the top side I bought some 1" ID washers and enlarged the opening slightly with a champhered edge so it would sit flush on the top of the bushing shell and provide clearance for the bushing center tube. The washer shown on the right is the one I modified with a dremel.


Here is what the final setup looked like. I stacked a few more washers on top of my modified one to distribute the press load evenly over the bushing.


I was a little worried that the powder coat might chip around the edge from the force of press but they all held up perfectly with no chipping.



Hopefully these will last the lifetime of the car and the powder coat will hold up better than the original paint did.

[dmc6960]

To remove the bushings I found a 27mm socket

You must have read my old suspension rebuild thread back on .com. I had some good threads on there. Sigh...

[Mark D]

I bet you are right. I remember reading into it a while back before I stearted tearing my car apart, and then when it was lost on .com

When none of the normal press kit parts were working I started hunting for sockets. What solution did you come up with for supporting the link end on the bottom side of the press? If I didn't have access to machining equipment to make those plates I would have been hunting for various sizes of black pipe at the hardware store.

As a side note, Dave At DMCMW has been a great help with tips and tricks on the suspension rebuild.

[dmc6960]

I was able to use one of the rings that came with the ball-joint press to support the underside. It wasn't a 100% square fit though, and as a result it did slightly mar the ends on mine. Since I was inserting poly bushings after refinishing though at least there were no chips in the paint. I didn't go all out and powdercoat mine.

[Mark D]

Yeah there was one ring in the ball joint kit I had that was very close, but just a fuzz too large. That particular ring had a lot of wear on it also from previous people who rented it.

I marred up one link a little bit and got a bushing half way out before decided to make the flat plate. I was getting nervous with a few tons of pressure on the part and it wanting to pop out sideways.

I would have messed up the powder coat pretty bad on reinstallation using the ring. One thing I really like about the poly bushings are is how easy they are to install... My whole front end has poly instead of rubber.

Do you have any rubbing or squeeking issues with poly on the rear? Frame rub was the main reason I stuck with rubber on the rear links.

[dmc6960]

Do you have any rubbing or squeeking issues with poly on the rear? Frame rub was the main reason I stuck with rubber on the rear links.

Not that I've ever heard. I did lube the bushings lightly with the included grease, but probably not everywhere I should have (I dont particularly remember doing some of the faces). Still, nothing I've ever noticed.