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Thread: Best way to remove frame epoxy

  1. #1
    Senior Member Nick774's Avatar
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    Best way to remove frame epoxy

    So Ive been sandblasting what I can on the frame to remove the loose epoxy chips and rust. However the majority of the frames epoxy is still well bonded on. The plan thus far is sandblasting to reveal every rusted area, cut, and weld in new sections. Two good layers of POR 15 and then prep to be reassembled. What is the best product or technique to remove the epoxy?1050427145605_ORIG.jpeg this is an old pic, the frame is complelty stripped right now.

  2. #2
    Senior Member WelmoedJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick774 View Post
    So Ive been sandblasting what I can on the frame to remove the loose epoxy chips and rust. However the majority of the frames epoxy is still well bonded on. The plan thus far is sandblasting to reveal every rusted area, cut, and weld in new sections. Two good layers of POR 15 and then prep to be reassembled. What is the best product or technique to remove the epoxy?1050427145605_ORIG.jpeg this is an old pic, the frame is complelty stripped right now.
    I'm not saying you shouln't use sandblasting.
    However, this way you will have a lot of work and little result.
    Sandblasting if all epoxy has been removed, will be better and take less time.
    This sandblasting will not be needed if you follow the below described process.

    Over here (Europe, Netherlands) I have experienced that using heat (special ovens) removes all of the epoxy.
    Make sure to clean out the inside of the frame as there will be a lot of remains in there.
    It may take more time and effort:
    - Transport to and from the facility that does the coating removal.
    - Cost of having it done.

    Most of the frames need repairs after coating removal, so this is the moment for judging the condition of the fram.
    After frame repairs we have the frame treated with zinc (galvanisation).
    When that's done, it gets a powder coat.

    Hope this helps you decide how to proceed.
    Welmoed
    Black D 1981-11 sold
    Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    You can probably get most of with a torch and scraper. Would be faster than sand blasting. The clean up with sand balsting.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #4
    Senior Member WelmoedJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    You can probably get most of with a torch and scraper. Would be faster than sand blasting. The clean up with sand balsting.
    Using a blow torch will only help to remove the epoxy on the outside of the frame.
    The high temperature probably will also burn part of the epoxy on the inside, but will never get it off as good as an oven does.
    A partially removed coating on the inside will never ensure a good surface for a new protective coating.

    It will cost (often much more than) a bit but it will ensure a totally clean surface, outside AND inside.
    Welmoed
    Black D 1981-11 sold
    Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
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  5. #5
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
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    Short of a torch, perhaps just a high heat electric heat gun? I would guess that it would start to bubble up and then you could give it a quick scrape with a putty knife. That might work and give you less chance of burning it and the mess that could cause. I'd be interested to hear if that works.
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
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    Just douse the frame in Brake Fluid and wait a week. The epoxy will just melt off!
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  7. #7
    accidental owner DMC3165's Avatar
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    I think the torch and scraper method would work best Nick. If it was me I'd sandblast it after you've got it down to bare metal. In the past I've done work like this on class 8 truck chassis and have found rotten metal far beyond what was visible to the naked eye. A few good raps with a welding hammer will reveal alot of fatigued metal as well.

    I hope the frame is salvageable. I still think you might be better off with a replacement if you can find one at a reasonable price. Good luck!
    Chris Piazza
    1GR8STRY
    Owner of 3165 by default

  8. #8
    Delorean Restoration Center
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    It has to be Acid dipped to weaken the epoxy.. then you finish with Sandblast.... It is possible to remove with a Sandblaster but you have to use a different more expensive sand...

  9. #9
    Senior Member Nick774's Avatar
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    Almost...

    Hello again guys! So as far as the frame goes I've used the torch and scraper method and cleaned up a decent portion from the rear engine bay tail bar up to the mid section in front of the trans. This is however a lot of time and gas so i would prefer to have it baked. I've taken it up to a place called Quick Strip in Carteret NJ, but they were unable to blast it. We tried numerous media on it but no luck. We even tried some heavy duty stripping agent but nada. He then tipped me off to another shop that does automotive baking but they said they don't have a big enough oven? Ive been scowering the internet tryng to find a shop but nothing. So now Im back to square one and Im really trying to have the frame welded and POR15 by the end of December. Does anybody body In or near New Jersey Know of where I can bake my damn frame

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Maybe a BIG bonfire! What you need is a torch like the roofers use to put down roof coatings. And an ice chopper. You don't have to get it perfect, you can finish small spots with sandblasting. Most shops with ovens will only go up to around 450, not enough. It will soften the epoxy but as soon as it cools it will get hard again.
    David Teitelbaum

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