That is exactly what that is, Block Rot. Is this the end for this engine? I would assume so unless some believe it is salvageable, I would prefer to keep the block if I can.
Location: Kissimmee, Florida
Posts: 168
My VIN: 000774
Club(s): (DMA)
That is exactly what that is, Block Rot. Is this the end for this engine? I would assume so unless some believe it is salvageable, I would prefer to keep the block if I can.
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 227
My VIN: ******* 01860 - Legend TT 06068 - VQ35 SC
Club(s): (DMA)
It may be (can't tell from the photos for sure), but why risk it? It would stink to dump money in to rebuilding this block, only to have problems down the road.
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you are that familiar with welding, then fixing up the frame is going to be simple for you. All you need are a few sheets of 16 GA sheetmetal (and a lot of time!). There is no reason to obsess over the block. The motors are not numbered to the car so it is not necessary to try to save an unsaveable block. You are correct in that the frame is the foundation of the whole car and you do need to start with a good, solid, straight frame. You can either cover it with POR-15 or find a shop that will hot-dip it in zinc. The zinc will add a few pounds, the paint will not. The zinc will last longer but if you keep the car inside and not parked on dirt it will last a LONG time even if you only paint it. I would not recommend stick welding it, too easy to burn through. It is a lot easier to control and weld thin materiel with a MIG welder. For the utmost in control I find gas welding is the best method but it takes a lot of practice and is a slower method than MIG.
David Teitelbaum
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
When we still refurbished mild steel chassis (during the dark ages) this was performed as a multi staged process. The part must be brought up and down from temperature as not to warp and distort. We also had a fixture for holding in the oven as it would want to twist if just left sitting on a cart. We were acustom to 14 hour sessions ramping up to 850+ with a bath between to wash out ash once cooled and pickling at the end. A heck of a lot of work for a piece that will never be properly coated. I was never comfortable with the final product and gavl finishes are horrible. Best solution we found was e coating. Still not a great solution as dipping is the only way to properly do this component. To my knowledge no one offers this for such a large object. (as of 2014)
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Finding an oven large enough and hot enough is not easy. One way to remove the epoxy is with a plumber's torch working on a spot at a time with a scraper. It will be a long, tedious, messy, and smelly job but it could be done that way. If the epoxy is in good shape you may only have to deal with certain bad areas, not the whole frame. Just remove the epoxy from where it is loose and spray paint those spots. As mentioned in the previous post, if you bake the frame you must take precautions to prevent distortion. The way to go would be to find a Redi-Strip or similar place that can strip the epoxy for you. Probably easier to find than an oven. As soon as the frame is stripped you must get something on it right away before the steel has any chance to rust. At least a primer or a Chromate dip. Zinc coating is expensive and will add weight besides messing with all of the holes. They will all have to be drilled and tapped to remove the zinc so you can assemble the car back together.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
700F for 4 hours in a burnoff oven.
Chemical dip is better, but not available to me
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?69...l=1#post111948
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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