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Thread: LED Window Switches - DMC Midwest

  1. #11
    Slickness of SS SIMid's Avatar
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    Location:  Melbourne, Australia

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tillsy View Post
    I've taken mine out a few times and merely pulled them from the front. Of course being 30 years old that's not to say they originally should have come out so easily?
    Cool, thanks for that! Looks like I will have to dig them up and install them. Mine too seems to hesitate occasionally on the driver's side.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    Location:  Ontario, Canada

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    Simon,

    Here's a couple pictures of underneath. You can see the plastic tabs on the sides of the replacement switches. If you are lifting those up and out of the console, about the only thing to do would be to pry in a little bit with a flat head screwdriver those tabs to allow them to lift out easier. If they already slop around in there, it won't be an issue. The white connector underneath is simple and only fits on the switch one way. You can actually do it from above without removing the console, but I had mine out for other reasons. The close up connector is the defrost one in the middle, which apparently got a little melty in the past so don't mind that. The whole install is quite simple actually.

    NOTE: just to clarify, you install the switches from the topside of the console, not the way this picture shows. I only had them connected with the console removed to just ensure they were working prior to putting everything back together.

    IMG_1818.jpgIMG_1749.jpg
    One damn minute Admiral...


  3. #13
    Slickness of SS SIMid's Avatar
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    Thanks Jonathan! I'll give it a shot over the weekend.

  4. #14
    Still Plays With Toys awildermode's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    123

    There is one potential problem with the new window switches. Because of the added light element, the switches are longer and could hit the bottom of the console (underbody).

    This is not a design flaw of the switches, since I seem to be the only one with this complaint. It could well be that my underbody is designed differently (textured pontoon). Anyways, my solution was to cut two holes for the switch and connector to sit properly. I want to stress that my problems with them are most likely from my underbody and nothing to do with the switches. Now, everything is fine.

    Click here for a long winded write up of my issue (feel free to skip).

    Also, I have the incandescent version of the switch and decided to go LED. Instead of purchasing a new pair of switches, mine work fine, I did the mod myself. LED version was not available when I got my switches about two years ago.

    Click here for that winded write up.(feel free to skip this, too)

    These are great switches, and work well. Highly recommended for anyone looking for upgrade.

    Oh, and Dave and Julee are awesome!

  5. #15
    Slickness of SS SIMid's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Melbourne, Australia

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    Quote Originally Posted by awildermode View Post
    There is one potential problem with the new window switches. Because of the added light element, the switches are longer and could hit the bottom of the console (underbody).

    This is not a design flaw of the switches, since I seem to be the only one with this complaint. It could well be that my underbody is designed differently (textured pontoon). Anyways, my solution was to cut two holes for the switch and connector to sit properly. I want to stress that my problems with them are most likely from my underbody and nothing to do with the switches. Now, everything is fine.

    Click here for a long winded write up of my issue (feel free to skip).

    Also, I have the incandescent version of the switch and decided to go LED. Instead of purchasing a new pair of switches, mine work fine, I did the mod myself. LED version was not available when I got my switches about two years ago.

    Click here for that winded write up.(feel free to skip this, too)

    These are great switches, and work well. Highly recommended for anyone looking for upgrade.

    Oh, and Dave and Julee are awesome!
    Plug and play ..... er, no.

    Wilder, I tried to install them yesterday and yes, I have the same problem too!! Stupid me, was forcing them to go in and not realising that they were too long. I pulled out the ashtray and also the dummy switch and could see the white connector jamming against the tunnel. Without the white connector, perfect. So looks like I will have to get a rotary tool and do some modifications. Oh, I do have the textured pontoon.

    Unless someone can tell me that I'm doing something wrong?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Most people just put some washers under the panel so it lifts it enough. I made up a cable to solder on the switches and put new connectors on that cable and the car harness.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #17
    Slickness of SS SIMid's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Most people just put some washers under the panel so it lifts it enough.
    Must be a few washers as from memory, it was maybe 4mm gap to make up for the switch to be flush. My electrical soldering is not the best, may have to do some cutting instead.

  8. #18
    Vin3299's Doc DeLorean03's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dayton, OH

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    My VIN:    3299

    It would be really nice if Houston would start making more of these....

    I know I want a set of them. My understanding is these are on back order. I'll be calling them tomorrow to confirm as I would really like a set.
    DMCTalk.org Moderator

    Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:

    Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.

    Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....

  9. #19
    Aussie Member Tillsy's Avatar
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    Location:  Adelaide

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    Quote Originally Posted by SIMid View Post
    I tried to install them yesterday and yes, I have the same problem too!!
    If you pull out one of your old plugs and stick in a tape measure, what is the available distance? Wonder how that compares between us all?
    Chris

  10. #20
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,684

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by SIMid View Post
    Must be a few washers as from memory, it was maybe 4mm gap to make up for the switch to be flush. My electrical soldering is not the best, may have to do some cutting instead.
    I think you only have to cut at the front side where the connector hits. I would guess you can pull your dummy switch cap and look inside as to where it hits.

    Also if you cut the metal jumper a little bit with a longer slot (I just remove the burrs), you can seat the jumper against the switch. I just use an xacto knife holding the jumper with some pliers.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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