Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 265
My VIN: 2565
Taking all the wires just to realize is a lot of work especially if you remove them and find out it was the coil. That's why I gave you a simple test to do. I always use that method just to confirm there is fire in that cylinder and working correctly.
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
That is kinda why I said...Originally Posted by deloumis
"Do any others that don't lead to taking the fuel mist/mixture unit loose to get to the ignition dist first though =/ ..."
No need for him to do all that work when it could be something simple first.
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Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Posts: 841
Coil Test Results
OK, so here are the results of the Pertronix Flamethrower 1.5 ohm 40,000 volt coil test (including subtracting initial resistance by touching both test leads together). Again, the problem is not intermittent and cold or hot it is always there. I tested the coil cold.
Primary Resistance (setting multimeter to 200 ohm-touching black to (-) and red to (+)) - 1.4-1.5 ohm fluctuating
Secondary Resistance (setting multimeter to 200K ohm -touching black to (-) and red to the coil wire terminal) - 9.9 steady
What do you all think?
Last edited by DeloreanJoshQ; 09-15-2012 at 10:36 PM.
Posts: 841
I had a new coil tested and it read 1.6 for primary and 9.5 for secondary.
Any thoughts?
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 265
My VIN: 2565
If you have a new coil slap it on and go for a test drive. I still believe it is the wires, have you ran any test in them?
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,579
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Now that you mentioned you have a Pertonics coil I would definitely try another coil and you may have burnt up your ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I would also pull and examine the spark plugs.
David Teitelbaum
Posts: 841
-The wires are Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro that are advertised at 350 ohms per foot resistance. They are custom sold by John Hervey.
I'm not sure I understand how a Pertronix 40K volt coil would burn these up as these wires have been used with hotter coils in V8 applications.
-I ordered Bosch silver tip HR6DS from Autozone S/O..I'm going to wait until I get these to install them before I start pulling wires to resistance check them.
-I'll try a stock-style ignition coil just for kicks...
-I cleaned all of the pins on the resistor block and also researched the wiring. The block was previously wired with the lower left side having a wire connector going to it (on the "bent" tab). According to research on here and the electrical wiring diagram, it is supposed to go to the upper right side of the block. So I corrected that. However, it had no affect on performance....
-I R/Rd the yellow, blue, and white bulkhead connectors and also ignition ECU connector under the opposite side of the fuse block area.
-I checked the distributor and it is tight.
None of these checks or changes had any effect....so now I am going to wait and decide what to do with the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil......
Posts: 841
I checked and the MSD 8.5mm Superconductor wires Hervey sells are only 40-50 ohms of resistance per foot. If I need to replace the wires, I will purchase these over another set of Taylors....but first I'm going to check and replace the spark plugs..
Posts: 89
Pertronix coils are fine. Many owners are running them or their MSD counterparts no problem. A common mistake some newbies make is to orient the coil and wire it by the label on the side of the canister rather than the + and - signs on the top. White with yellow goes to positive and white with gray goes to negative.
Unless you have upgraded your ignition to HEI your Pertronix coil is no hotter than a Bosch blue coil anyway.
Spiral wound wires rarely go bad. That is the biggest reason to use them over Bosch or Bougicord wires, which do fail with time.
Ignition modules can certainly fail with time but they usually fail altogether.
I suspect your problem is cap and rotor wear. Pull them off and look inside. While your rotor is out measure resistance across it. Many owners do not realize that Bosch rotors have a resistor potted inside. Anything more than 5K ohms is too much.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
[QUOTE=DeloreanJoshQ;73952
None of these checks or changes had any effect....so now I am going to wait and decide what to do with the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil......[/QUOTE]
What plug gap are you running? That has much more impact on system voltage and therefore stress on the cap and rotor than plug wire resistance or coil type. .
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
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