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Thread: Frame Paint Color Comparison

  1. #21
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    I think I used Krylon Smoke Grey. It was an almost perfect match. If you have to paint bare metal you should use a good primer first and sand (feather) the edge so the repair is invisible.
    David Teitelbaum
    I'm using POR 15 gray under it. Should look nice.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    POR 15 is good because it is supposed to neutralize any rust and prevent it from spreading and it is thick so you don't have to feather the edges as much. It is supposed to be covered with a top coat so it doesn't matter if it isn't a good color match. They say you can paint it right over rust, just knock off any loose materiel. I still like to remove as much of the rust as I can so I am down to good, shiny metal. POR 15 also doesn't dry smooth (it doesn't flow). You might want to sand it smooth after it dries and before painting over it.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #23
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    POR 15 is good because it is supposed to neutralize any rust and prevent it from spreading and it is thick so you don't have to feather the edges as much. It is supposed to be covered with a top coat so it doesn't matter if it isn't a good color match. They say you can paint it right over rust, just knock off any loose materiel. I still like to remove as much of the rust as I can so I am down to good, shiny metal. POR 15 also doesn't dry smooth (it doesn't flow). You might want to sand it smooth after it dries and before painting over it.
    David Teitelbaum
    Totally!

    The biggest patch was only about 4 inches by 3 inches and exists inside where the fuel tank sits. It's like being in a fort while I'm under the car sitting up in that space scrapping away loose epoxy and doing the prep work.

    Too bad no one will ever see it.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  4. #24
    Car Fanatic. Technical Novice. pezzonovante88's Avatar
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    Has anyone ever tried Krylon Pewter Gray? I was at the hardware store today and it looked like it would be a very close match.
    Note: Rustoleum Smoke Gray is not available here in Canada.
    Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood

  5. #25
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    I will be painting my frame also. It is a clean frame, just needs to be freshened up.

    I will touch up the small rust spots with POR-15 silver that I have. Spray the frame Rust-oleum smoke gray. Is that good enough or spray a clear coat over it?
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

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  6. #26
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    Few questions:

    1. What is the paint code for can instead of spray can?

    2. After cleaning and scuffing the frame, just paint right on it, no primer?

    3. Any top coats, clear coats?
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

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  7. #27
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    Bump!
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

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  8. #28
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    Anyone?

    I just need these few simple question that I am not sure of answered:

    1. What is the paint code for can instead of spray can?

    2. After cleaning and scuffing the frame, just paint right on it, no primer?

    3. Any top coats, clear coats?
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

    "Trying to Live the Dream!"

    "If you're gonna own a DeLorean, why not build it with some style?"

    http://www.facebook.com/billy.chingas.7

  9. #29
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1batt4u View Post
    Anyone?

    I just need these few simple question that I am not sure of answered:

    1. What is the paint code for can instead of spray can?

    2. After cleaning and scuffing the frame, just paint right on it, no primer?

    3. Any top coats, clear coats?
    Hey billy,

    I'd love to help but I would only have suggestions, not factual answers. I was not aware they made a can. Did you check their website?

    I'd use POR15 underneath. It's thick and durable and holds paint well

    A contaminant proof clear coat would be great if it exists. After my refurb, brake master leaked all over a few weeks of hard work and required some touch ups.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  10. #30
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Rustoleum Smoke Gray:
    Spray: 7886830
    Quart: 7786502
    Half Pint: 7786730

    http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24

    I've only used the spray can version (see pics in first post) so I can't comment on the color match of the canned liquid paint. I would assume that it's the same, but I can't say for sure.

    To repair frame rust the method I used was:
    Degrease
    Rinse
    Sand to bare metal w/ 120 grit sanding discs
    Degrease
    Rinse
    Metal Ready
    POR 15
    Scuff with red scotch brite
    Rinse
    POR Self Etching Primer
    Rustoleum Smoke Gray

    In the areas I knew I'd be getting overspray with the rustoleum I scuffed the epoxy with a red scotch brite pad to help improve adhesion. I haven't had my car out on the road yet since I've painted the frame (still assembling the rest of the car) so I'm not sure how well it holds up. My guess is the paint from a can will hold up better than spray. I'm planning on probably having to touch up spots in the future since I sprayed everything.

    I didn't use clear coat.



    .
    .
    .
    Also, in your POR-15 instructions it says you don't need to prime over the top of it before top coating if you dust on a super light coat of your top coat while the POR15 is curing. I was having issues with the POR 15 bubbling as it cured so I opted to let it cure fully, then scuff, then prime, then top coat.

    If you're top coating with a brush you'll probably want to use the POR self etch primer. Most other paint will not stick well to POR-15 even if the cured surface is scuffed.
    Last edited by Mark D; 04-22-2013 at 01:14 PM.

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