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Thread: Door ajustment needed?

  1. #11
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Removing the torsion bar is just a variation on adjusting it. You loosen it till you have no tension on it. It requires the "jig" if you want to do it without removing the rear sunshade. You still need a 1/2" breaker bar, pipes and the 3/8 allen socket. Undo the tension with the door propped open between the door sill and the bottom of the door. Once you undo the torsion bar you must be very careful the door doesn't fall on you! It is very heavy. You also have to remove the Tee top to disconnect the wiring. I have had limited success tweaking the door back. Open it and grab the lower corners. Try to quickly twist it in the opposite direction. If it feels very loose and bouncy it won't stay "tweaked". I haven't done it but it is probably possible to fix it without taking it off the car. Probably a better way to do it, you can easily test it to see if it is straight. It does require welding it to stiffen it up.
    David Teitelbaum
    Sounds tricky..lol I'll do some more reading before I attempt to try it. Is there alot of tension on the bar, as in if I do it wrong will it release and hit me like a garage door spring?
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

  2. #12
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Happy Valley, OR

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC81 View Post
    Sounds tricky..lol I'll do some more reading before I attempt to try it. Is there alot of tension on the bar, as in if I do it wrong will it release and hit me like a garage door spring?
    It's a two person job and if your not careful you can shatter the rear window. If you haven't done it before get with someone who has. I've adjusted mine twice now at PNWDC Tech Sessions with the help of Toby from DMCNW and I still wouldn't try it myself.

    Cheers
    Steve
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  3. #13
    Senior Member deloumis's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2011

    Location:  San Antonio, TX

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC81 View Post
    Sounds tricky..lol I'll do some more reading before I attempt to try it. Is there alot of tension on the bar, as in if I do it wrong will it release and hit me like a garage door spring?
    Its not too bad I've done it a couple times. Just make sure you have a good grip on whatever your using to remove the torsion bar or like stated you could break your rear glass. Oh and yes there is a lot of tension on it. Just make sure to have somebody with you, better if it is someone who has done it before.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC81 View Post
    I really appreciate all the info and tips, it makes me sick to think I may have to buy a new door. Is there a thread on taking the torsion bar out? I have never done this.
    As mentioned elsewhere, the bar can be removed after the rear bracket is removed. The bracket has to come loose to adjust the door torque. One more step and it is off with the bar unloaded. Then you gently pull the bar free to the rear til the bar head is free of the front hinge. Do not nick the bar with any tools.

    This post has the link to the appropriate torsion bar references.

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...s-and-Jig-Info

    With the right tools and care and an assistant it is straightforward. Use ONLY a 1/2in. square socket hardware behind the Allen key, never a 3/8" socket attachment. It cannot reliably take the torque.

  5. #15
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    As mentioned elsewhere, the bar can be removed after the rear bracket is removed. The bracket has to come loose to adjust the door torque. One more step and it is off with the bar unloaded. Then you gently pull the bar free to the rear til the bar head is free of the front hinge. Do not nick the bar with any tools.

    This post has the link to the appropriate torsion bar references.

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...s-and-Jig-Info

    With the right tools and care and an assistant it is straightforward. Use ONLY a 1/2in. square socket hardware behind the Allen key, never a 3/8" socket attachment. It cannot reliably take the torque.
    I looked all around the door and it seems the outer skin is still intact, no broken welds or broken glue joints. It looks just like the passenger door. I don't see any bends, creases or separation of the outer skin at all. Adjusting the door still seems over whelming to me. Anyone near Dayton Ohio that could help maybe or a near by place to take it?
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

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