I have seen various versions of that fix. It can work if done well. What I have done on my car is the screws and nuts through the rivets and I soldered all of the rivets to the board. The "trick" is to get everything clean enough so that the solder actually sticks and is not just laying on top. You also have to clean any oxidation on the springy bottom contacts and the shell that holds the bulb. I use a wire brush that they sell to plumbers to clean the insides of copper fittings before soldering. I think it is the 1/2" size one. If the bases of the bulbs are not shiny you wire brush them. Make sure the contacts in the plugs that connect to the boards are making good contact and the pads on the boards are clean where the plug fits. P J Grady sells the best upgraded taillight boards but they are pricey. When testing bulbs you flick it with your finger while holding it up to the light. If you see the filament shake on one end then the bulb is bad even if it tests good with a tester. Be careful with the 2 filament bulbs when installing them. One pin on the base is higher than the other so you install it correctly. It is possible to install it wrong and you switch the filaments. The stop filament is brighter than the tail filament.
David Teitelbaum
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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
