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Thread: Broken Manifold/Crossover Stud- difficulty of replacing manifold

  1. #1
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    Broken Manifold/Crossover Stud- difficulty of replacing manifold

    So, with my usual brilliance while trying to pull the stock exhaust system to install a setup similar to Bill's, I broke one of the studs on the driver's manifold where it connects to the crossover (first pic). Looking at it though, I halfway wonder if breaking it wasn't almost a good thing as it's a BAD shape, and I would be unsurprised if I would have had a lot of trouble trying to use it for the new setup.

    However, this means that regardless of exactly what I do (leaning heavily toward going all-in and getting Hervey's headers/exhaust setup, though I could just replace that one manifold- if the other side comes apart more easily) at least that manifold has to be replaced. Looking at the nuts/studs on both sides, I'd be unsurprised if they had ever been taken off- both the nuts and the studs look to be in pretty bad shape. I had already changed out of my shop clothes when I went out with the camera so the angles aren't the most ideal, but I took a few pictures.

    I'm generally too far to reasonably take the car in to any of the shops that specialize in D's (closest one is about 100 miles away), but there is an exhaust place nearby that I could get the car to in the state it's in (well, the state its exhaust is in... I'd have to put the fascias back on and the seats back in :P). I'm wondering what the consensus is from those who have done this kind of thing before is on whether I'd probably be better tackling it myself, or letting the pros handle it.

    I'm generally pretty fearless when it comes to doing things on the cars, but with this if I break a stud it would potentially mean having to pull the engine to replace it. Granted, a shop might have the same problem- but I'd hope they'd have the experience to not have that happen...

    DSCF0157.jpgDSCF0155.jpgDSCF0153.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Which stud broke off? That will help determine options. I can't tell from the pics.

    Andy


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    Andy Lien

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  3. #3
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    Take the manifold off, then drill & tap it for a new stud or bolt (the original stud has become part of the manifold now -- just use it as part of the new threads). I've done this on a Ford.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  4. #4
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Ehh - "take the manifold off" is a pretty loaded statement likely to leave you with even more broken studs, these sticking out of the engine and even harder to get to.

    If the 8 mm manifold outlet studs looked like what you show in the pictures, the 7mm engine studs won't look much better. They will break if you don't use lots of heat on the nuts, and even at that you may find some that are already broken or fall off.

    Get ready for the slippery slope of exhaust work . . . .
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  5. #5
    Senior Member 1batt4u's Avatar
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    What would be the best way to prep for this, before starting to remove bolts from the engine??
    Billy C. VIN: 2964

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  6. #6
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    Don't remove the studs -- split the nuts off, clean up the threads with a die, then reinstall with stainless nuts.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  7. #7
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    I just noticed: the exhaust manifolds use totally opposite mounting holes side to side:
    ExhaustManifoldsSideToSide.jpg

    Since Bob is throwing away his crossover pipe, why not simply snap off all the original studs, then remount the manifolds on the opposite sides, using new studs in the virgin holes.

    This of course would not work if he wanted to reuse his crossover pipe (crossover pipe will not mate up to manifolds that have swapped sides).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  8. #8
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
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    All this is easier said than done. Why in GOD's name did they use such small steel studs. One of the differences between this and, say, Mercedes which seems to put a little bit of thought into making things bigger and heavier. It's a good move to use the unused holes. (I hate to make this next statement, but I will. "Some of my virgin holes are now filled with new studs." Yeah yeah ha ha ha.)

    If either of you guys need to look up some freelance guys on C/L and pay them by the stud, you might want to try it. Hopefully they won't warp the shit out of your metal.

  9. #9
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    I'd think it would be a lot wiser if you could do it to split the nuts and then try and remove the existing studs to replace them with stainless ones... or at least not snap off the existing ones and put new ones in the other holes in hopes that sometime down the line when the engine is pulled that the original studs could removed more easily.

    Using the other holes is an interesting idea though...

  10. #10
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
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    I wanted to share this pic of how we managed to use an extra flange to work around a broken stud.flangeoverbrokenstud.JPG

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