FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Toll Booth Windows rubber

  1. #1
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Co

    Posts:    331

    My VIN:    2245

    Toll Booth Windows rubber

    How are the toll booth windows supposed to look along the top. Mine look to have been messed with by someone in the past and are sloppy and ugly. Is there supposed to be a rubber strip across the top of the aluminum piece? If so where can I get this? Anyone got any close up pictures?

  2. #2
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,592

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    The piece is a little V lip that seats onto the glass. It is built into the channel 105943 and 105942. I do not believe that it is available separate. You can form this very carefully with the use of urethane and taping everything off.
    www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters

  3. #3
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    It is available separately though is extremely difficult to install. Early cars did not have this and instead had a sealant bead. My car had the rubber on the drivers door, but not the passenger. Last spring I removed the passenger fixed glass, the channel, cleaned it all up (also difficult if urethane was used) and put it all back together with the new seal. Initially I tried having the seal in the channel first, then putting the combo on the glass. That didn't work well. Finally I tried having the seal on the glass first then pressing on the channel. That worked surprisingly well. I'm not sure how easy/difficult it would be to do it without removing the entire fixed glass.

    http://store.delorean.com/p-9762-glass-run-channel.aspx

    101726.jpg
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  4. #4
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    And here is my relevant post on the subject after spending half a day on it...

    Quote Originally Posted by dmc6960 View Post
    It's all about knowin the right way to do it.

    I screwed around with the drop glass channel seal for about two hours trying to get it on the fixed glass and aluminum channel. You'd think the old way it could go in would be to insert the deal into the channel first and then guide it into the glass. WRONG! Apparently if you do it on the glass first then guide the channel over the rubber, you can do it in 10 minutes flat!

    So far today, I have accomplished this...



    From this...

    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  5. #5
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Co

    Posts:    331

    My VIN:    2245

    This is what I was looking for, Are you sure that link is to that top seal. It looks like the seal for the inside of the aluminum piece where the movable glass sits when the window is up.

  6. #6
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

    Posts:    1,585

    My VIN:    06960

    Quote Originally Posted by r00b View Post
    This is what I was looking for, Are you sure that link is to that top seal. It looks like the seal for the inside of the aluminum piece where the movable glass sits when the window is up.
    Yep, your right. My first link was for the felt inside the bottom of the channel.

    This is the rubber piece...
    http://store.delorean.com/p-9776-ret...ip-rubber.aspx
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Renton, WA

    Posts:    342

    My VIN:    02261

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Please see my picture of the Retainer Strip, Rubber in the thread below.
    Read my post #8 and post #14.
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?82...uter-Wipe-Seal

    Below is only part of what I posted in #14.
    The seal (110731) in the previous picture was a pain in the ass. Maybe I should have added that to the pic.
    First you install the rubber seal into the top channel of the black aluminum divider. Then somehow you start at one end and shove the seal against the large fixed glass. It helped me to have one person on the outside and one person on the inside opening the rubber channel as it was pressed against the edge of the fixed glass. I remember using some sort of silicone lube on the rubber so it didn’t stick to the glass.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

  8. #8
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,680

    My VIN:    11596

    I am reviving this ancient thread because I'm having a REALLY FUN time installing this stupid seal.

    Yes I am talking about DOOR FIXED GLASS CHANNEL RETAINING STRIP #110731

    I've been talking to another owner (I'll let him chime in if he chooses to) and his method was to use RTV to glue the seal into the divider, and then he laid a bead of weatherstripping adhesive inside the retaining strip, and then he pressed the divider and strip onto the glass, using a thin piece of plastic, like a credit card, between the glass and seal on both sides simultaneously to keep it from tucking under the glass as he worked from one side to the next.

    I tried to do the same and ended up with a gooey mess (I used clear silicone instead of weatherstripping adhesive) and I nicked the seal a couple times on the outside by using a small plastic pry tool to keep the seal straight. I did not like the nicks so I took it all apart and quickly cleaned my divider of RTV and silicone before it all set up so I can give it another go.

    I'm going to order about 4 more of these damn seals so I can try other options

    Without reading this thread prior, I did try Jim Reeve's method initially of putting the seal onto the glass first, but without any adhesive, it was too twisty and would not stay on, so I followed the above method since the other owner said it worked for him. However now I'm intrigued by Jim's method, thinking maybe i should give it another try but this time silicone it to the glass, let it cure, and then try to press the divider onto it. Worst case, I'll ruin a seal if it doesn't work, and the glass is easy enough to clean again.

    Any other experienced owners out there deal with this thing?

    I did make sure the divider will line up with the glass properly, in fact I had to shave off some of the fixed glass main seal where it was interfering with the front-end of the divider sitting in place where the rivet would be able to go through.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  9. #9
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Co

    Posts:    331

    My VIN:    2245

    After I got the seal I took my car to a glass shop and I had them do it. I like doing the work myself on my car, but I don't want it to look like I did it my self. So this was one of the few jobs I took in to have done. It cam out very nice, They took out the door fixed glass and put the new rubber piece around the glass and then replaced the seal around the aluminum part, both inside an outside.

  10. #10
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,680

    My VIN:    11596

    I talked to a couple other owners about this who amusingly agreed that this is one of the worst jobs to do on a DeLorean short of removing doors or something wild like that. I do not recommend replacing this seal unless you really have to do it. Don't touch it if it's leak-free! In my case my divider was all scratched up inside from careless removal of the toll booth window and I had a big gouge in the outside of the divider from either a rock on the interstate or vandalism.

    Here is what worked for me:


    1. Scrubbed all the mould release white stuff off the seal, inside and out, with red scotchbrite and then washed in the sink with hot water and dish soap. Dried before proceeding.
    2. Set the seal into the divider using a narrow bead of Permatex Weatherstrip Adhesive (from Advance Auto) and inserted paint stir sticks into the seal to help it maintain an open-U channel shape while the adhesive dried.
    3. Found that at both curves in the divider, the seal would not stay "open" and this caused a lot of trouble getting it onto the glass. I ended using a TINY bit of superglue between the divider and the seal only in those areas to keep the U-channel open before attempting to install.
    4. The black crash bar has to be removed from the door before installing the divider. You should also remove the outer wipe seal.
    5. NO silicone or any sealant goes between the U-channel and fixed glass
    6. First starting at the rear end of the divider, I worked the seal over the glass and then worked my way forward, spraying soapy water onto the glass and seal frequently as I went, using two thin credit cards to constantly keep the seal from folding up under the glass. I was able to get the rear third onto the glass before I had consider the front of the divider and started to work it on in the same way, eventually meeting in the middle somewhere. Sometimes working from the outside of the car and then to the inside, and back and forth, constantly swiping the credit cards, spraying soapy water, and pushing up on the divider and trying to get it in place. The divider and the glass are NOT flat, they are 3-dimensional and of course the two pieces are not exactly the same angle so it's a lesson in frustration to get it all lined up.
    7. Once the seal was mostly on and no longer folded under anywhere, I folded up a thick rag and placed it between the toll booth window and the divider and slowly tapped the window up until the rag was helping to hold the divider in place so it won't fall down causing me to start all over. Keep working the divider up until the holes in the end tabs meet up with the holes in the door.
    8. Remove the rag and install the inner velvet seal that goes between the divider and the toll booth. No sealant needed, it stays in place. Make sure all of the extra material is at the REAR of the car and leave as little extra as possible in the front otherwise it interferes with the glass coming up.
    9. Confirm the toll booth window is going in and lining up with the divider. I actually had to slightly twist the divider inward towards the front, twisting it on the seal, using a large pliers wrapped in a rag, to get the inside channel of the divider lined up just so with the toll booth glass.
    10. Ensure the end tab holes are lined up with the holes in the inside of the door. If not, just use your palm to push up on the corners of the divider to get the seal fully seated and then the holes will line up. Then using a rivet tool, insert a 1/8" x 1/8" rivet into each hole.


    Such a horrible job, I hope I never have to do it again.


    PXL_20240224_202929752 (1).jpg

    PXL_20240224_221544216.jpg
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •