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Thread: Building New AC Panel Faceplate

  1. #11
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Not much to see yet but the panel is ready to play with some LEDs. Still need to do the standoffs but that can wait.
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    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #12
    Ryan > Ruben Ryan King's Avatar
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    Beautiful. I am excited to see how this turns out
    Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997

  3. #13
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    I decided to layout a circuit board rather than do a complete prototype board. So today I pulled the "radio" bracket so I could measure up dimensions. Also using the OEM plastic faceplate to get measurements.

    My plan is to use the existing standoff locations for mounting the PCB directly on the metal bracket. I will cut holes to clear any switches mounted on the plate (fan switch). I'm thinking of mounting LEDs on the PCB to light up the knob arrows so that fan switch will need LEDs mounted on the PCB with wires to extend them over the required cutout in the board.

    The PCB with be 1/32" thick so it may even work with the stock plastic face plate but you would need to remove the white paint and cut the three indicator bulb mounts off.

    That metal back plate (radio bracket) sure is a flimsy thing. This is the first time I have removed it. Need to do a lot of clean up of the wiring behind it from PO modifications.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #14
    Senior Member john 05141's Avatar
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    Location:  Hasselt, Belgium

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    Dave, I am actually very worried...

    Worried you're gonna make me very jealous with that illumination you're making.
    I have nice blue LED's in the AC panel, and new LED's the the hazard and light switch but the AC panel illumination is fairly poor. I had the face plates in my hands a few weeks ago and I noticed the PO had put white paint on the clear plastic (at the reverse side of course) to probably better guide the lights, but even then you can only see the light when it is very dark.

    I'm very interested in the results of your set-up.

    Jan


    Steering with power

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john 05141 View Post
    Dave, I am actually very worried...

    Worried you're gonna make me very jealous with that illumination you're making.
    I have nice blue LED's in the AC panel, and new LED's the the hazard and light switch but the AC panel illumination is fairly poor. I had the face plates in my hands a few weeks ago and I noticed the PO had put white paint on the clear plastic (at the reverse side of course) to probably better guide the lights, but even then you can only see the light when it is very dark.

    I'm very interested in the results of your set-up.

    Jan
    Direct back-lighting will get you all the brightness you want. I think even running less than 5 ma will be to bright. The LED chips are rated for 20 ma. The white paint is the stock setup. I guess it does help with the light pipes.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #16
    Senior Member john 05141's Avatar
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    Oh, I tougt the PO did this. That explains why it actualy looks like it was done in a hurry.

    Seems very logical to me what you want to do. I hope to see pics (especially before and after ones)
    Good luck with that!

    Jan


    Steering with power

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Real pain getting the center lines of the holes for all the parts (switches, standoffs screw holes) by measurement. I'm sure I can get it close enough to work but sure wish I had the drawing for those part locations. I will probably do a 10 board order without the cutouts to save money. Then I will have to machine the cutouts myself. Don't think this will be a high demand product since the cost would be high.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    I can't wait to see this! Just an observation and feel your pain BTW... When I made a mold for my own custom LED panel and graphic overlay, I noticed that the holes for the lights and hazards were not 100% symmetrical in their relative positions. The measurements for the stock setup are not entirely exact (at least mine was like this). They are not way off, but enough to drive the OCD a bit nuts. I am excited to see your progress! Can you post pictures of what you have so far?

    On another note - are you doing direct LED illumination from the back? (meaning the LEDs face towards the decal?) I hope I am explaining this right but I had a hard time getting my first attempt not to look "spotty" when illuminated. I tried to play with distance from the decal to diffuse the light but there is only so much room. I ended up going with high density LED ribbon mounted on its side following the contour of where light needed to be projected (indirect lighting). This diffused the light for a super even illumination. You are the electronics guru though and am crossing my fingers you will nail this project down and find the perfect solution! May our stock light panels never have sub-standard illumination again! Woohoo!

    Keep up the great work!


    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Real pain getting the center lines of the holes for all the parts (switches, standoffs screw holes) by measurement. I'm sure I can get it close enough to work but sure wish I had the drawing for those part locations. I will probably do a 10 board order without the cutouts to save money. Then I will have to machine the cutouts myself. Don't think this will be a high demand product since the cost would be high.
    DeLorean VIN 16793 - 1983
    Loving my power steering!

  9. #19
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kajcienski View Post
    I can't wait to see this! Just an observation and feel your pain BTW... When I made a mold for my own custom LED panel and graphic overlay, I noticed that the holes for the lights and hazards were not 100% symmetrical in their relative positions. The measurements for the stock setup are not entirely exact (at least mine was like this). They are not way off, but enough to drive the OCD a bit nuts. I am excited to see your progress! Can you post pictures of what you have so far?

    On another note - are you doing direct LED illumination from the back? (meaning the LEDs face towards the decal?) I hope I am explaining this right but I had a hard time getting my first attempt not to look "spotty" when illuminated. I tried to play with distance from the decal to diffuse the light but there is only so much room. I ended up going with high density LED ribbon mounted on its side following the contour of where light needed to be projected (indirect lighting). This diffused the light for a super even illumination. You are the electronics guru though and am crossing my fingers you will nail this project down and find the perfect solution! May our stock light panels never have sub-standard illumination again! Woohoo!

    Keep up the great work!
    Yes my plan is to use LEDs mounted directly facing and behind each letter or number on the decal. The trick is to get the LEDs moved as far back as possible to eliminate spots of light. I'm also using surface mount tiny LED with very wide angle light. I should have the base layout done this weekend. Then I can start placing the LEDs on the base board. Still remains to be seen if the stock face plate will work with my new PCB board. My guess is it will work but you would have to remove that white paint.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #20
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Got the center line positions of all the components. Took to many hours to do this. The large cut out for the fan switch is just a plastic spacer they used to lift the switch to the correct depth. So if need be, I can cut that down. I'm just concerned with mounting the LEDs for the knob arrows there. Now I can start placing the LEDs and resistors.
    Attached Files
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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