Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
I was checking the gap of the Fan Knob from the front panel and it looks way to much at 3/16".
Can some of you guys check your clearance gaps? (how far the knob is off the front panel).
I never noted this before but never really looked at it. I can't check the other two knobs since I have my mounting plate removed. I know the heat control also has a spacer to set the distance but the vacuum switch is a fixed part.
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 601
My VIN: 6313
To faceplate surface...Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
- Fan (back of) 3.5mm
- Mode switch 2.5mm
- Temperature 3mm
Jeff
Jeff
#6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
Thanks for measuring. Looks like I will remove that large spacer on the fan switch. Then if I need the knob moved out just put a shim in the knob.
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 1,306
My VIN: 2964
I noticed that also when I started working on the double-din faceplate. If and when I get them going I will make it so just the switch is in there not the plastic piece.
Billy C. VIN: 2964
"Trying to Live the Dream!"
"If you're gonna own a DeLorean, why not build it with some style?"
http://www.facebook.com/billy.chingas.7
Posts: 237
My VIN: 10110
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Yes my fan switch stood out alot also, I just removed the white spacer and put it behind the console bracket.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
I'm going to glue my fan switch in with RTV. That clamp that holds it does nothing. I also may add another shim on the TEMP "switch" to pull it back if needed.
My circuit board will pull all the knobs a little closer anyway 1/32" of an inch.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
Started placing the LEDs. Found out the front decals are not really cut and lettered to perfectly match the OEM plastic plate. The current decal DMCH sells the fan switch is shifted left a little but the rest of the decal looks perfect. The old decal I had, most of the switch centers are all off a little also. Also looks like the decals were designed by hand placement of the lettering because mathematically (distance and angle) shows errors in the letter placement. I don't think this tolerance will be a problem since I'm mounting the LEDs back the full length of the OEM standoffs.
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 1,306
My VIN: 2964
Why don't you put something between the panel and switch, so it can press against it?
I plan on making mine thick on that side, so that the panel just on that sides sits on the switch and doesn't move.
Billy C. VIN: 2964
"Trying to Live the Dream!"
"If you're gonna own a DeLorean, why not build it with some style?"
http://www.facebook.com/billy.chingas.7
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
RTV is an easy way to hold parts in. It also is not hard to remove if you need to. My radio box (braket) also is held in with RTV. It just takes a long time to set up when you put on a thick bead.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,003
My VIN: 03572
Placing the FAN LEDs and the right side of the mode switch LEDs was not a problem. One LED under each position.
Now the long words and the ring around the temp switch......how many LEDs to use on each word?
I wish the PCB cost for one board was not so high ($279) compared to $4.59 each for 100 boards. It's almost silly not to order large quantities. I think the light will also bleed over into the clear ring to illuminate the knob arrows so I don't plan to use LEDs just for the knob illumination. I sanded the paint off one knob arrow to test that. I'm now at 45 LEDs but have to decide if that's to aggressive. I still can play with trying to add a diffuser to spread the light. Maybe using the OEM plastic plate with it's light pipes (paint removed) will also diffuse the light but I need a finished board to decide.
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Dave M vin 03572
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