I'm tagging all my bases before starting. I need to find a radiator hose that does a a quick 90% followed by another quick 90% so that I can direct it over to the driver's side from the passenger side of the water pump. I think I'll just use 3' lengths of hose to follow the path of the driver's side hose, down past the fuel filter to the underside of the tranny. By rotating the passenger side pipe that leads up front, I can get it to angle toward the fuel filter. I'm going to relocate the overflow tank to the driver's side of the firewall since I have no ballast resistors or the other crap in the way.
Once clear of radiator stuff, fabricating a mounting bracket mockup will be much easier. I think I'll be able to keep the AC on a V pulley and add a ribbed belt for the other pieces. The air piping is pretty straightforward, including the bypass valve.
Anyone got a catalog or knowledge of radiator hoses to find the 1 1/2" to 1 1/4", 180* bend that I need?
The BAE system got its oil by removing the oil pressure sending unit and adding a tee. I suppose you could do the same thing on the other bank at the oil pressure warning light drilling as well. The return is drilled into the top surface of the sump. The BAE instruction sheet is available as a scanned .PDF, but I don't have the link at my fingertips right now.
Is not good to use the oil warning light hole for taking oil pressure: the oil warning sensor makes also a "restriction" in a hole in the duct wich discharge pressure, so if you just remove it and put a nipples or a T or a different sensor in the same threading you will have a discharge point for oil pressure and so a bad low oil pressure, wich can makes very bad damages...
You can use instead the closed hole above it, the one wich is closed from factory, or take the pressure from the other side where you have the oil pressure sensor.
For the oil return, you can weld a thread fit in the oil sump, higher you can, or in the engine lower cranckase support, on a side, like the BAE system.
Andrea - #01748 3.0lt Twin Turbo EFI, custom brakes, suspensions, manual trans - black interior -
PRV's lover. Club Italiano Delorean www.dmc12.it
Is all of the plumbing going to be rubber? no metal tubing?
Some metal; just enough to tie rubber pieces together in the engine bay, to provide the connection for the overflow and to provide some solid points for mounting brackets.
Sometimes it's just better to be lucky than good. I went to Advance Auto and asked to look through their radiator hoses. Within 30 seconds we found this bad boy which has a nice tight radius to bend back towards the driver's side. Now of course with that kind of luck we KNOW it just couldn't be 1 1/2" ID to fit the water pump......but it is! Wooooo hoooo.
I'm still sourcing straight run hosing and/or aluminum pipe to get the rest done up.
Anyone got some old pipes (don't want to butcher my otherwise good condition ones if I don't have to) they wish to contribute (cheap I hope) to the project? I think duplicating the same path down the driver's side will work. Getting a section of the aluminum tube that includes the overflow bottle tie in nipple would be really good!
Sometimes it's just better to be lucky than good. I went to Advance Auto and asked to look through their radiator hoses. Within 30 seconds we found this bad boy which has a nice tight radius to bend back towards the driver's side. Now of course with that kind of luck we KNOW it just couldn't be 1 1/2" ID to fit the water pump......but it is! Wooooo hoooo.
I'm still sourcing straight run hosing and/or aluminum pipe to get the rest done up.
Anyone got some old pipes (don't want to butcher my otherwise good condition ones if I don't have to) they wish to contribute (cheap I hope) to the project? I think duplicating the same path down the driver's side will work. Getting a section of the aluminum tube that includes the overflow bottle tie in nipple would be really good!
i dont quite understand where you want to make the water hoses go , and what route ?
Also, very important remember that if you make a point in the silicon water HIGHER than the thermostat purge, you could have possible air problem and difficulties to purge air, if you not make a purge knob in the highest point.
I used an higher water hose in a first setup, but i really had problems, and had to put pressure in the system to purge air, so after i made all metal hoses, stainless steel, with a purge hole with nut.
Andrea - #01748 3.0lt Twin Turbo EFI, custom brakes, suspensions, manual trans - black interior -
PRV's lover. Club Italiano Delorean www.dmc12.it
Both cooling lines (in/out of water pump) will follow the stock pathway on the driver's side. Once under the car they rejoin their normal configuration. In the engine bay however, this frees up the entire passenger side from any hoses so that I have unobstructed space to mount the supercharger. I intend to keep the air purge nipple I have on the water pump, or as you say, put in another one.
I can only plan and mock up for so long before I just jump in and do it. Or at least start....
I removed the passenger side pipe that comes up to the engine bay, the overflow bottle and the associated plumbing.
I rotated the passenger side tube that runs along the frame on the underside of the car so that it now angles towards the driver's side.
I installed the new hose on the water pump (hich is closer to 1.75" than 1.5", but the hose stretched over it with a bit of work).
I flipped the passenger side pipe with the overflow tank connection over and used it on the driver's side. I don't see any reason why having the nipple facing downwards should make any difference once it has a hose on it and is reconnected to the overflow tank above it.
I used the metal standoff to hold the pipe in place.
Next step is to connect this engine bay piping down to the end of the pipe by the transmission. I could simply use another #58 (DMCH part) and parallel the one there, but then I'd have to add hose sections and clamps at both ends. I may just go with a 40" length of hose, probably the corrugated, flexible kind eliminating some connections and cheaper: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2532&ppt=C0075
Lastly, I need to connect the new water pump hose to the radius section of the flipped pipe. This is 1 1/2" to 1 1/4", which I believe I can also get in the same flexible tubing, ~20" length. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2532&ppt=C0075 One small piece of aluminum tubing to mate them and done.
as a fellow corrado owner, I've owned 5 including a 95 Canadian spec. If you are still planning on using the G60, if you don't know the history I would get it rebuilt from a good tuner. When I had my 91 Corrado G60 I kept putting off getting mine rebuilt. So the belt broke and push a piece of metal through the center of the case of the charger. Also you get a 68mm smaller pulley for a nice upgrade. some other G60 tuners are www.bahnbrenner.com or http://www.kompressorkanada.ca . Here is a pic of my current 94 corrado VR6
I certainly do plan on having it rebuilt. I pulled it apart and it has a small, repairable chip in the center displacer. I want new apex seals, bearings, belt and testing done. I'm holding off sending it in until I'm further down the road of making it all work. I'm just waiting on one more fitting from Jegs and my coolant hoses and fuel filter relocation portion of the job will be complete. The next step is the tough one; figuring out exactly how to mount the G-lader. I have the space now, but getting the right "frame" to hold it in place will be a bit of a fabrication challenge. Then the pulleys. Then the oil line and air ducting. If all that comes together, the $500 or so to rebuild will be a no brainer to make sure it is in good shape. Having the EFI system in place and the ability to retard the advance (oxymoron?) so I don't knock and ping the engine to death is a BIG advantage over stock. With a dense cylinder charge the spark travels faster through the mixture and pre-detonation is a real killer of boosted cars. I was talking with Stephen Wynn at DMCH the other day and that was his only real concern. He's very comfortable with the engine innards and their ability to handle modest boost.
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Originally Posted by dustybarn
