FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 3 of 10 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 98

Thread: Car shut off, why?

  1. #21
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

    Posts:    277

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Some RPM relays prime the fuel pump some don't. The Delorean used both versions. There is a solid state (aftermarket) unit that has a prime feature. It will prime every time you cycle the key. Not sure about the OEM ones that prime.
    That is a good piece of info to know, is it better to have it one way over the other tho?
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

  2. #22
    Member jorge figueroa's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Puerto Rico

    Posts:    64

    My VIN:    01279

    Several weeks ago one of our delorean
    had a similar problem
    checked the fuel pump, ignition system
    and found that the relay of the fuel pump
    had several components detached (bad solder)
    A common problem in European cars, especially Volvos
    talk a lot about this topic in the discussion forums dedicated to Volvos
    but never mentioned in the discussion forums dedicated to delorean
    Sometimes the problem is in plain sight, but in other cases you have to use a magnifying glass
    to see how this welding on the electronic panel in the relay
    I managed to fix this problem in some DeLoreans

  3. #23
    Vin3299's Doc DeLorean03's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Eglin AFB, FL

    Posts:    1,603

    My VIN:    3299

    Honestly not trying to give you a hard time, but you should come to our Thursday night get-togethers down in Cincinatti.

    We constantly have at the very bare minimum 4-6 of us there every single Thursday. Ken's place currently has 8 DeLoreans there in winter storage/being worked on including mine (storage). Just in case you don't know, Ken runs the national DeLorean show over at deloreancarshow.com ... he's very helpful and knows these cars pretty darn well.

    I met your father in the Home Depot parking lot at Col Glenn Hwy right in front of Quaker Steak. He gave me your number, and I unfortunately lost it. You are more than welcome to call me. I told Ken about you, and he said he'd be willing to bring your car down on a trailer to get it to his place for us to help you (you two work out the details on the flatbed arrangements).

    Seriously dude, you got a BIG club right here and a lot of people willing to help. Here is a picture of the club at our first meeting just this last Saturday - 49 people and 6 cars showed up - in January: https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...77703082_n.jpg

    Just extending the offer out there. I'll PM you my number.

    - Jeremiah
    DMCTalk.org Moderator

    Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:

    Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.

    Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....

  4. #24
    Senior Member WelmoedJ's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Purmerend, Netherlands

    Posts:    747

    My VIN:    06513

    Club(s):   (DCN)

    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Do you have a meter? Just measure the resistance across them. But no, generally speaking resistors do not just go bad.

    Fuel
    Air
    Spark


    If you hear the fuel pump going, then chances are you haven't had a catastrophic blockage that would prevent fuel from reaching injectors.
    Air.... did your throttle cable perhaps snap and shut your butterflies?
    Spark. Most likely culprit. Pull a plug wire and have someone crank car while you see if a spark jumps from the end of the lead to the engine (anywhere, about 1/2 inch away). Use gloves.

    Once you figure out it is spark (my guess), report back and we'll continue.
    If there's no spark, check the connector in the wire from resistor pack to the starter relay next to it (the yellowish transparant covered one).
    That's more than once the bugger!
    Welmoed
    Black D 1981-11 sold
    Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
    Mazda MX-30 (BEV) 2020-09

  5. #25
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

    Posts:    277

    Quote Originally Posted by WelmoedJ View Post
    If there's no spark, check the connector in the wire from resistor pack to the starter relay next to it (the yellowish transparant covered one).
    That's more than once the bugger!
    I will look the all over, seems to be what most people are thinking. Thanks buddy.
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

  6. #26
    Senior Member Dangermouse's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Atlanta OTP GA

    Posts:    7,084

    My VIN:    2743

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Top 2 reasons

    Fuel pump died.
    Loose connection on the ignition resistor.
    Add:

    Loose connection on the ignition coil (in my case anyway it had vibrated off)
    Dermot
    VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320

    I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans

    http://www.will-to-live.org

    No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"

  7. #27
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

    Posts:    5,326

    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Dangermouse View Post
    Add:

    Loose connection on the ignition coil (in my case anyway it had vibrated off)
    Yeah - that would be #3.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  8. #28
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,006

    My VIN:    03572

    Another item to check is your two pin connector on the ignition distributor pick up coil wire. Mine was so badly corroded, I cut it off and soldered the wires without a connector.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #29
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

    Posts:    277

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Another item to check is your two pin connector on the ignition distributor pick up coil wire. Mine was so badly corroded, I cut it off and soldered the wires without a connector.
    Thanks Dave, I'll make sure I check it out. Right now these 10 degree temps outside are putting a hold on going out in the garage. (not heated) lol
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

  10. #30
    Senior Member DMC81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

    Posts:    277

    Good news!!! I went over the things you guys suggested, I wire brushed the terminals on the ignition resistor and tightened up the female connecting wires. I did the same on the ignition coil and then removed the coil wire it's self and reinstalled it just to make sure it was making good contact. I'm not sure which one was the problem but it fired right up and it was running much smoother and better!!! I let it run for a good while till it was up to temp and it never even hinted at shutting off. Thanks for all the info on this problem guys!
    Mike Lowrey VIN# 3830

Page 3 of 10 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •