[WANTED] Stainless Steel starter heatshield !

[BABIS]

I have the english SS fre flow exhaust.
according to this picture (credit to Jeremy Popp) http://www.deloreanweb.com/uploads/exhaust16.jpg with the UK headers it is still possible to mount the starter heatshield (in the picture I guess there is the original one mounted)

the reason I want the heatshield is because I think it would be a good improvement to protect the 30 years old starter and solenoid against the huge amount of heat generated by the exhaust system..

[1batt4u]

Should have a bunch in stock. Haven't sold any in about a month. Most owners just opt for the spec one system.

So with your Spec 1 exhaust system there's no need for a heat shield?

[Jonathan]

101045 is the real DMC part, it is really stainless, and was apparently never installed at the factory. The factory ones were all asbestos. My theory is that this was a replacement that was intended but they didn't run out of the other ones. They are available and in stock for about $38.

Sorry, no photos installed handy. The photo on the DMCH Website is accurate.

Old thread revival...

Anyone have a picture or two of an installed starter heatshield?

I have one finally now that I'd like to get installed. Well, truthfully, I have two. I bought an asbestos one initially and inadvertently and then later on got the SS one. I have the fasteners that are available, but not everything listed on the parts page. The shakeproof washers are out of stock and so is the M7 screw.

I don't really understand what this bolts to or what needs to come off to get it installed. It looks to me like it bolts up to or with the exhaust manifold bolts, but not sure. I'm not particularly in the mood to take off the exhaust manifold just to installed a heatshield I don't really need.

[DMC-81]

Hi Jonathan, for the asbestos version at least, the 2 mounting locations are:
1) The first one is a 7 mm bolt/washer (SP10789) and a spacer ( 101046) attached to the unused threaded hole in the head. I don't have the length of the bolt, but by memory it was 30-35 mm?
2) The other one is using a second nut/washer on the 7mm manifold bolt.

Here is a picture without the shield:


You can see the first one here with the spacer (painted aluminum):


I don't have a picture of the second one, but the DMC website parts diagram hopefully depicts it.

You should be able to install it with a 1/4" size socket and extension (s). Having the starter removed helps in terms of space, but I don't know if it's required.

[Jonathan]

Thanks Dana, that definitely helps. I don't have the exhaust manifold stove and warm air intake duct anymore, so a little more room above to do the install. I have that spacer part as well and shouldn't have too much trouble finding an M7 bolt the right length. Metric system here, right? I'll post back here with my progress.

[Jonathan]

Ok, more progress, and more confusion.

Is it just me or do the positive battery connections on the starter come very close to the bottom side of the metal heatshield?

I got the starter heatshield installed ok. Straightforward enough. When I was sizing it up just trying to get a feel for how it goes in, I touched part of it to the positive battery cable accidentally and it sparked against the side of the block for a moment. Disconnected the battery and then proceeded. Now conscious of the possibility of a spark if they touch again, I removed the positive battery connections (one thick red cable to the battery, another thick red cable to the jumpstart post, and a 3rd cable (brown wires, wrapped in black tape) going to the alternator).

I wanted to clean up those connections before putting it all back together. Seems like a lot of connections to fit on one threaded stud? My alternator connection is a flat, straight loop yet the red battery cables have a right angled loop and stick up much more than the 3rd one does. Complicating matters is that those two right angled loop connectors are flat on one side but a little bulgy on the other where the thick cable ends get terminated. If you can rotate them just so, you can get the flat loops lying together and the cable ends out of each other's way. To do this though, seems like the top ends are close to that underside of the heatshield. Rotated down too far and they seem to be too close to the other connection on the starter.

Any pictures of this wiring installed to see if I'm doing something wrong? I have the red rubber connector protector in place, but it's kind of on backwards as it would need you to put both bulgy ends of the loops facing each other and then there's no way to get it all on the threaded stud with the nut on tight.

I'm inclined to just put it all back the way it was and take the heatshield off. That metal short circuit straight from the battery to the block is a little frightening, especially with the frequency valve of the fuel lines right nearby (and leaking occasionally).

My two red battery cables are stiff and a PITA to bend into a new position also. I could see replacing these might help. The DMCH cable shown for sale doesn't indicate what kind of connector is on it, though presumably it has something on the one end?

[DMC-81]

Hmm. Here is a picture, but the wires that I added thermal protection to are directly in the way. However, I don't remember the red wires being close to the starter heat shield. From the picture, it looks like there's 3/8" to 1/2" clearance. I also remember having to orient the two red wires so that they would be out of the heat sources as much as possible.



Perhaps there is room to bend the 2 tabs of the starter heat shield so that the unit sits higher and provides more clearance?

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the pic, Dana.

I think my main issue is that the heatshield I have (the SS one from Houston), isn't curved at all. So the straight edge on the underside ends up being a little too close for comfort with the tips of those red battery cable connectors.

I took it off again and put things back as they were. I'll keep my eye open for options or something else I could do to get this installed. Thanks.