Found the "burning" smell source (pic)

[ZX-14]

These aren't HID's, they are a bulb (h1-h2) type. Clear lense, I have seen them on DMCH website. However, by reading whats on the lense, a 20 amp fuse should handle them.

The #7 fuse had an issue, probably melted when the other fuel pump was in the car.

The only time I ever smelled electrical burning was when my lights were on. I never smelled it during the day, which clues me into the headlights being the issue now. No doubt, #7 did melt, but it was probably before this fuel pump.

[DMC5180]

Something to note. Those Large numbered fuses are Original 32 yr old fuses. It appears about half of the fuse box has had Newer fuses installed (small numbers)

All the 10's are Newer. The 20's are OLD (except #10). The 30 is OLD

[Bitsyncmaster]

From what I remember the OEM bulbs were 35 watts. The silver stars are higher (think 50 watts) which is what I use and still have the 20 amp fuses. If you go with real high power bulbs that's when the 20 amp fuse will get hot. If you measure the current with the engine running on each headlight fuse you can know if your going to have the problem again.

[Jonathan]

Something to note. Those Large numbered fuses are Original 32 yr old fuses. It appears about half of the fuse box has had Newer fuses installed (small numbers)

All the 10's are Newer. The 20's are OLD (except #10). The 30 is OLD

Hi Dennis (and others),

I was curious if this 'large numbers' and 'small numbers' bit about being old or new was 100% accurate? The reason I ask is because I have a similar mix of fuse font sizes and I replaced all my fuses with ones that were part of the upgrade kit. This would have been around October 2008 when I put all new ones in. One of the only ones I can recall since then needing to be replaced was the interior lights one when I shorted out the wires accidentally replacing a door light receptacle.

You can see here in a picture I took just a few days ago where my fuse fonts are a mix of big and small.

What do you think?

IMG_3352.jpg

[m81dmc]

Too much draw (malfunctioning end component, like radiator fan say) can melt the fuse box as mentioned, but surface oxidation of the fuses and terminals adds alot of heat too.

This is why the fuses should be looked at to check for oxidation (or replaced). Removing and replacing them also scrapes off some of the surface oxidation reducing the resistance. Oxidation causes resistance and resistance causes heat which melts the fusebox. Electrical resistors get hot. I'm also not using the cover, only set it aside for the inscription info.

I'm thinking of plating my new fusebox terminals with gold (doesnt oxidize - even after centuries under the ocean). Its only a very small amount so shouldnt cost too much to do. Have to consider the other relay terminals there too though.

[DMC5180]

Hi Dennis (and others),

I was curious if this 'large numbers' and 'small numbers' bit about being old or new was 100% accurate? The reason I ask is because I have a similar mix of fuse font sizes and I replaced all my fuses with ones that were part of the upgrade kit. This would have been around October 2008 when I put all new ones in. One of the only ones I can recall since then needing to be replaced was the interior lights one when I shorted out the wires accidentally replacing a door light receptacle.

You can see here in a picture I took just a few days ago where my fuse fonts are a mix of big and small.

What do you think?

IMG_3352.jpg

When you say Upgrade kit. You mean FUSE BOX Upgrade kit. Is that correct?

Back when DMCH first started offering the kits, they were Take-offs from NOS main harnesses. It was typical for them to remove all the fuses from the LOADED FUSE BOX. Then they would bag up the fuses and ship them with the NOS Fuse box and NEW terminals. When they stopped using Take-off Fuse boxes and had them reproduced, I'm sure they still had a supply of (NOS type) 20 and 30 amp fuses, but were out of the 10 amp sizes. Those were just supplied as NEW.

I'm not saying there is any thing wrong with using the NOS fuses as long as they are clean. The most important part of the replacement kit is the NEW IMPROVED TERMINALS. The original terminals were junk. As the heat built up they would get weak and loose tension. Unfortunately, once it starts it just feeds on itself getting worse and worse until things melt.

I have a bag full of the NOS fuses that came with my NOS take-off box. I choose to use NEW smart glow fuses instead.

[Jonathan]

When you say Upgrade kit. You mean FUSE BOX Upgrade kit. Is that correct?

Sorry, I meant the upgrade kit which included all new fuses and relays and circuit breakers, but not the box itself. The intention was to swap out the old school relays with a newer, better technology. The 10 A, 20 A, 30 A fuses were also all replaced at that time. I was not under the impression that they were 30 years old. Next time I'm at Canadian Tire, I'll compare the font size on a package of new fuses and see what is currently being sold.

[MML]

Reading this thread has made me want to replace my fuse box. I have one quick question though... do you need to order a new box lid along with it, or will the old one still fit? i.e. have the dimensions of the box changed, or are they still NOS boxes?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Reading this thread has made me want to replace my fuse box. I have one quick question though... do you need to order a new box lid along with it, or will the old one still fit? i.e. have the dimensions of the box changed, or are they still NOS boxes?

I think the DMCH new fuse box is the same dimensions as the OEM box but nobody uses the box lid anymore (it traps heat).

[DMCMW Dave]

I think the DMCH new fuse box is the same dimensions as the OEM box but nobody uses the box lid anymore (it traps heat).

Yes the original cover will fit. I agree with the comment to leave the cover off.