Getting ready to pull the motor, so I made sure to break the
crankshaft nut loose before I jacked up the car.
Location: Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111
Posts: 886
My VIN: 2691
Getting ready to pull the motor, so I made sure to break the
crankshaft nut loose before I jacked up the car.
*REVIEW*
So, I bought this tool with the hopes that I could remove my Crankshaft Pulley by using hand tools.
I really liked the look of the tool and seemed to be well manufactured, and its made from high quality material.
I dont know if it was just me, or if I was doing something incorrectly, but the tool didn't work out so well for my removal. Not all the teeth lined up with the transmission (Automatic) and I had a hard time getting it positioned correctly. I was able to reference the photos on here to get it close, but I could never seem to line up all 4 teeth in the grooves of the transmission gear.
I didn't want to use an impact gun to remove the pulley, so I first tried using a breaker bar with a cheater pole at the end, but before I could put any pressure on the nut the tool would bend up and fall off the transmission, or the teeth would get chewed up. After several attempts at rebending the teeth, resetting the tool, etc etc, I just gave up on it.
In the end, I had my neighbor help me with an impact gun and we got the nut off no problem...without the use of the tool...
I was really eager to use it, but unfortunately I was not impressed. Again, I could have been doing something wrong or not setting up the tool correctly. This is just my experience. 30 dollar was worth a shot, but it just didn't fit my needs.
-Ryan
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Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997
Location: Jarretsville, MD
Posts: 259
My VIN: 5786, 3196
Club(s): (DMA)
It looks like we had the same experience. I could get all 4 teeth to line up with the flex plate, but as soon as pressure would be applied to the breaker bar, the tool would rotate (only one bolt holding it in place doesn't prevent it from rotating) and 2 of the teeth would disengage. The two remaining teeth would then immediately bend. We ended up using an impact gun to get the nut off.
Maybe the tool works better with manual transmission cars, but with a manual, you can just put the car in gear and use the e-brake or wheel chocks to keep it from moving in order to prevent the flywheel from moving.
Either way, I bent the teeth back and will keep the tool around. I figured it was worth the gamble as well. I appreciate the person who made it for doing so, and for shipping quickly. I just think that preventing it from rotating would make the tool more effective. image.jpg
-Derrin
5786: DPI cams and cat-less exhaust, galvanized and powder coated manual frame for a proper 5-speed conversion
3196 - My wife's DeLorean: DMCH new build, DPI rebuilt engine with performance cams and exhaust
1956 Oldsmobile Super 88
1960 Chevrolet Impala
1961 Corvette
1972 Buick Skylark GS 455 Clone
1975 Corvette (to be sold once restored)
1976 Corvette (wife's car)
1979 Corvette Daily Driver
1987 Corvette (technically wife's car)
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
It's probably more intended for a manual transmission. Different toothing pattern, maybe?
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
Maybe if the tool utilized not just the bottom threaded bolt hole in the transmission, but also the top one as well. There are two threaded bolt holes, if the tool was elongated to accommodate a bolt in both those bolt holes it would possibly be more sturdy. Possibly its just an Automatic transmission issue.
Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997