5992 Trip to Greece, Restoration and Speculations

[ALEXAKOS]

So I started cutting out a section of the rear frame's cover.
This is what I saw:


I removed the epoxy that was no longer a part of the metal.


What happened here is, water created its own siphon. Started eating away the components to get out.

Wonder what your frame looks like from the inside?




So I am hard at Rust removing work that will be patched with clean sheets of metal welded with tic weld.

Also cleared the frame of other parts.

As soon as I am done clearing the heavy rust sections it will be sand blasted.

[Josh]

Thanks for the picture, it does satisfy my curiosity!

It looks not too bad in there. With the side off blasting will be nice and easy like you said.

Sometimes I think they designed these frames to hold water. Some really strange compartments and sections of this frame...

[ALEXAKOS]

Sometimes I think they designed these frames to hold water.

Exactly Josh!
On that last image you can clearly see by the rust marks how the water was entering that top hole slowly detaching the epoxy from the metal and creating its own space.

All that just kept moving by the years until it finally breached out on the lowest point eating away the metal and creating a gateway of exit.

[ALEXAKOS]

Today I did some bench working.
Cleared all arms of the old bushings (tutorial here).

Removed disc brakes and all components to prep for sand blasting.


I also straitened out the arms from a few dents.

BEFORE



HAMMER TIME!!!!


AFTER:

[ALEXAKOS]

Finally I cleared the interior.

Removed the head liners


Steering and binnacle


Removed pax door torsion bar (almost ended in a tragic breaking of the rear window )


and I keep filling my Sandblast cases

[Josh]

Interesting method to suspend the doors!

Just a note, if you are planning to get zinc parts replated, DO NOT sandblast them. They look like garbage afterwards. I just unbolted all my zinc plated parts, but them in a container and gave them to the plater. They will clean and plate them, its all part of the process.

Edit: It might be a good idea to re-enforce the LCAs with a weld bead along the bent area. Mine were very bent, and when I bent them back they cracked at the bend. So I chucked them and got new ones. Expensive but shouldn't have any more problems. Also came with the ball joint and bushing already installed, so that saved time and effort as well. There are a few options for LCAs.

[ALEXAKOS]

Just a note, if you are planning to get zinc parts replated, DO NOT sandblast them. They look like garbage afterwards. I just unbolted all my zinc plated parts, but them in a container and gave them to the plater. They will clean and plate them, its all part of the process.

I am not sure if I want to zinc plate those again. Most of those parts are in places where you never see them and get very dirty. Especially the disc brake dust shield.

I It might be a good idea to re-enforce the LCAs with a weld bead along the bent area. Mine were very bent, and when I bent them back they cracked at the bend.

I got them all straight and dandy Secret is to heat up the metal before starting to hit it. Metal crack either when it is too cold, or no good as a metal.

Any ideas what to do with the extremely rusty disc brakes? I would just have the interior brushed.

Yeah the doors are good like that! Helps me work in the interior while I have the torsion bars out.

[Josh]

I am not sure if I want to zinc plate those again. Most of those parts are in places where you never see them and get very dirty. Especially the disc brake dust shield.

I got them all straight and dandy Secret is to heat up the metal before starting to hit it. Metal crack either when it is too cold, or no good as a metal.

Any ideas what to do with the extremely rusty disc brakes? I would just have the interior brushed.

Yeah the doors are good like that! Helps me work in the interior while I have the torsion bars out.

That is true. Youre making me sad that my shiny chassis will get dirty, haha.

Are you refering to the rotors or calipers? The rotors make good anvils, stands, or scrap metal. I wouldnt think of reusing 32 year old rotors.

For the calipers I completely disassembled mine (save all the pins on the rear, there are no replacements) and sandblasted them with a steel shot. The bore can be cleaned with brake cleaner and finished with a hone.

[ALEXAKOS]

Took a trip down town to the MASTER of engines overhauling.
Bit my ass price wise, but he is second to none.
He has been in the business for over 40 years and is called "Gramps" (Grandfather). Business now run by his two following generations but he still runs the place and calls the shots
A fat $1300 will it cost me to have the valve heads as well as the complete engine block overhauled with new components.

The naked PRV


Then went back home for some bench work. Taking apart he calipers to overhaul.


On to 5992, steering wheel column removal


Seat disassembly



Break cylinder removal


Rear side covers, speakers and heat/sound gard removal





Engine cover opening repair


I mean HONESTLY!!!! Who the hell thought of fastening that by puncturing the wheel haul. Where the water sprays with immense speed on to... Another Delorean engineering failure.

front speakers and Craig radio removal

[ALEXAKOS]

I then took my seats to remove the leather covers. As easy as 123...