In reverse... Make sure the drill is in reverse.Originally Posted by DeLorean03
Cheers
Steven
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
In reverse... Make sure the drill is in reverse.
Cheers
Steven
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Location: London, ON
Posts: 691
My VIN: 17082
Club(s): (DOI)
Good stuff guys, I'll check that this evening when I get home.
What about oil? I don't know when it was last changed, so I'll do it this weekend. I always put Castrol GTX in everything else I do. Any reason I shouldn't use that on the D? And I would assume there are no problems with Fram filters either (number PH7328 ) ?
- Devon
83 Canadian Spec - Manual, Grey, Fixed Pulls, Flat Hood
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
GTX should be fine. It's not a high tech engine, though some owners run synthetic. Everyone has their own opinion.
Most folks here us a Bosch filter, which is what the vendors sell.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?30...ighlight=72150
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
I use GTX High Mileage with a full bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I am not a fan of "miracles in a bottle", but I am a fan of what I can see with my own two eyes, and Lucas oil stabilizer is worth its money. 6 quarts of GTX high mileage with the full bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer = happy engine.
As far as a filter, no Fram. Bad. Cross reference the filter off of a 1988 Volvo 760 2.8L V6 - that is our engine (no need for super detailed differences here). Find the oil filter part number for that in the lil book at your auto parts shop, buy it, do your oil change, and "Bob's your uncle."
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: London, ON
Posts: 691
My VIN: 17082
Club(s): (DOI)
What's the problem with the Fram filters?
- Devon
83 Canadian Spec - Manual, Grey, Fixed Pulls, Flat Hood
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 1,147
My VIN: 1880
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
They are absolute garbage in terms of filtering technology.
See:
http://web.archive.org/web/200502041.../technical.asp
Last edited by Patrick C; 03-27-2013 at 01:02 PM.
Patrick C.
VIN 1880
Location: Atlanta-ish
Posts: 2,218
My VIN: 5311
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Devil's advocate: Fancy shapes don't mean a damn thing unless there's technical information to back up why one is better than the other. I see no such explanation. All I see is "LOOK! ZIGZAGS!"
- Chris
what
Location: London, ON
Posts: 691
My VIN: 17082
Club(s): (DOI)
Chris is right. Sure, there is clearly more surface area, but that doesn't say anything about the filter material. I could cram it full of 200 square feet of paper towel folded up like origami cranes, but that doesn't make it better. I'm not saying the other one isn't better, I'm just saying the picture alone doesn't prove anything.
- Devon
83 Canadian Spec - Manual, Grey, Fixed Pulls, Flat Hood
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,177
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Oil filters from a vendor are good to go in my opinion. You can buy a six pack and they are reasonably priced. You will also get a copper crush washer with each one to put on your drain plug. Have you looked closely at your drain plug? There is some variety out there in what type of tool or adapter you may need to get it off.
A new $7 air filter from a vendor is a good idea while you're in there. See about replacing the missing clips on your filter housing I think I noticed from your original photos.
A new alternator belt is money well spent if yours is old or frayed. I think your A/C compressor one was missing, so skip it if you want. A/C isn't that important at the moment (I don't think it is required for your safety).
You'll likely need to get your speedo working for the safety, depending on your relationship with the shop you're dealing with. Start with the suggestions you got for the dust cap and spinning it as is with your fingers or a drill. Get a helper to watch the speedo or just use a mirror on a stick. All you need to do is see the speedo needle move when you spin, don't worry about by how much.
Good advice on tire air pressure and turning radius. 23 psi fronts and 30 psi rears, or as you like them if you want more in the fronts. You can turn your steering wheel from straight to full left and full right and it is supposed to be a certian number of turns. Can't think what that number is at the moment. No power steering just means the wheel is hard to turn when it is not in motion. Much easier when moving if you give that a try.
How is your car idling? Are you at the point where it fires right up? Did that middle screw of three on the intake turn out to be missing? It will affect the idle if it is out.
Care to post some pictures of your fuse and relay area for us?
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
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