Running new speaker wiring

[Notifier]

Working on installing all new speakers and speaker wiring along with replacing the original Craig radio. The first thing I noticed was the old speaker wiring. How exactly did the factory wire up the speakers in these cars? I always assumed the speakers and wiring was original. And I would think the wiring would have been run along with the two bundles that go down the center console. But it seemed as though it was run in an almost afterthought way. Tucked up under the carpet, held in place with duct tape, fished around the front dashboard, etc. Unless the car was rewired at some point? But then I see no other indication of the original wiring.

Anyway, planning out how I am going to run the new wire. I figured I would run it in the behind the carpet, on the passenger side corner near center console. My original thought was run it along with the two bundles that follow the center console, but it seems like things are going to get a little tight in there adding a new set of wires along with a new antenna wire. Just wondering what others have done in this situation, maybe there is another path I’m overlooking? And how easy is it to pull off and reinstall the seat belt receivers? I was going to pull the one off to give me better access but don’t want to lose a bolt hiding behind it.

[jawn101]

Working on installing all new speakers and speaker wiring along with replacing the original Craig radio. The first thing I noticed was the old speaker wiring. How exactly did the factory wire up the speakers in these cars? I always assumed the speakers and wiring was original. And I would think the wiring would have been run along with the two bundles that go down the center console. But it seemed as though it was run in an almost afterthought way. Tucked up under the carpet, held in place with duct tape, fished around the front dashboard, etc. Unless the car was rewired at some point? But then I see no other indication of the original wiring.

Anyway, planning out how I am going to run the new wire. I figured I would run it in the behind the carpet, on the passenger side corner near center console. My original thought was run it along with the two bundles that follow the center console, but it seems like things are going to get a little tight in there adding a new set of wires along with a new antenna wire. Just wondering what others have done in this situation, maybe there is another path I’m overlooking? And how easy is it to pull off and reinstall the seat belt receivers? I was going to pull the one off to give me better access but don’t want to lose a bolt hiding behind it.

That's the original wiring method as far as I can tell - old black gaffer's tape along the center console

The seatbelt reciever (I assume you mean the end that the buckle "plugs in" to) is easy to remove. A single 17mm socket, nothing to lose. The nut for it is captive in the frame.

[Jonathan]

Right on. You're tackling pretty much the same project I am. Yea, the randomness of the wiring and black tape is all factory believe it or not. Pretty haphazard/after thought.

Here's a picture of the seat belt retractable unit spot where it bolts to behind the panels. No worry of losing any nuts on this bracket and like Jon said, the buckle receptacle part is similar. I took out the bolt on the connection on the door side and it has a collar/sleeve type thing that slid out with the bolt but I'm assuming it will be going back in with minimal effort. It definitely didn't seem like anything fell off behind when I undid it. I'm probably going to pull the seats out to do the job easier, and partly just because they haven't been out since I've owned the car and I'm curious what surprises might be under there.

IMG_3226.jpg

[Notifier]

That's crazy! It was almost like they forgot to include the speaker wiring with the design of the electrical system. At first when I started pulling it out I figured it was some job done by a DIY'er. Low gauge zip cord type wiring, just kind of taped up here and there, the best was the coil of extra I found wrapped up in a void behind the relay compartment. But then I got confused when I got to the connector behind the radio, the speaker wiring was rather well terminated in the connector, almost like it had never been touched. Well, it's all history now!

Thanks for the information on the seat belt receiver. Figured I'd ask someone before I just removed that bolt and heard that "THUD" form a nut falling into the void of who knows where!

[jfirios]

if your doing all the wiring and have everything out you might want to think about adding an amp or changing out all the speakers while your there. Then it would be wise to run all your signal wires, IE, RCA cables, speaker wires along the side of the tub either along the side where the door is or along the center console, and tape them down using new duct tape. Then depending on where the power for the amp and such will be going, you would want to run those cables on the opposite side of the car from where you put the signal wires. That will keep any power interference out of your sound. I know when i did my whole stereo rebuild, there was so much extra wire just thrown around and bundled together. It is always best to rip all that old crap out and start with good fresh wire. And use a decent gauge. It is worth the little bit more money to have proper wiring.

[Notifier]

Compete renovation on the audio system. New receiver, all new speakers, all new wiring with the exception of the battery and switched ignition wire, so don't worry. I'm actually going to try to re-use the windshield antenna. I listen to satellite radio anyway and have no use for an antenna. Figured I would hook the windshield antenna up just for giggles. About the only time I would use it anyway is to listen to the local radio station in some sort of emergency. I'm going to abandon the power antenna in the rear for now. Maybe another project down the road. I am running an antenna wire and power wire to the back just in case. No plans for an amp, but going to run an RCA cable to the back for future use.

[jfirios]

just make sure that you keep both power and signal wires if you want to pre run everything on opposite sides of the cars interior. you can see my stereo rebuild in the custom mod section of the forum.

[TTait]

I'm with you guys in spirit as far as separating power and signal runs for audio, but typically I think one might apply that to keeping low level signal wire (as in an RCA signal running to a remote amp) separated from a high voltage AC source.

It's more an issue when you have microphone lines that run parallel to 120/240/380/480 VAC. In architectural applications we would keep parallel runs 18"-36" apart.

That said, if its easy to do and you keep your wiring neat, it can't hurt, but I'm not sure it applies in this situation. Would it really matter in this case?

[David T]

It is good practice not to bundle tightly for long runs your input signal and power wiring. That said it really shouldn't matter all that much because the input cables are shielded and the power cables are DC. You also shouldn't run your signal and speaker cables tightly bundled together for long runs for the same reason. If you can, run your input signal cables on one side of the car and your power and speaker cables on the other side. If you are upgrading the speakers, receiver, amps, etc, you should run all new wiring. The original stuff is WAY undersized for anything modern. You can use the ignition power, that only tells the stuff the ignition is on. The power wiring should be run from as big a connection as you can do with it's own separate protection and filtering.
David Teitelbaum

[Notifier]

As a general rule of thumb, I always try to separate my power and signal wires. Low voltage is my lively hood. I've ran wiring through buildings for alarm systems, CCTV, networks, you name it. CCTV wiring was especially touchy. Keep that away from any voltage or you have problems! It's actually code where I live, low voltage and AC wiring must be separated by 6" and they check!

Anyway, I'm running all the power and speaker wires down the passenger side (9 wires total) and the antenna and line level signals down the drivers side. One, to keep that separation, but more important because the bundle of 9 was close to the limit to stay hidden.