By pass accumulator and adding regulator...

[Mydmc5898]

I'm going to bypass the fuel accumulator.
I want to make sure this is right first... I'm going to connect the pressure lines together. Inlet and outlet.

The return line has part number 106996 attaching it to the other lines.
Can I just replace this part? And if so what size do I need?
Or is there another method?

I have the stock regulator that is on the 3.0. I haven't had a pressure test done yet. Assuming it's good, should I replace it anyway? And if so is there a preferred regulator to use after market?

Thanks
Darryl

[AdmiralSenn]

I'm not sure what you're going to gain from bypassing the accumulator. I may be wrong - my experience with K-Jet was painful and short - but I don't think it can hurt an EFI setup whether it's working or not. Lots of people just leave them in there. Unless it's leaking gas I wouldn't worry about it. It's too much of a hassle to get in there and do the job and the benefits are minimal.

Adding another regulator before it as in a 3.0 EFI setup really just makes the accumulator moot. (I think.)

As far as brands of regulators I have no idea. My setup is all custom hoses so I went with an Aeromotive, but your selection of 'stock fit' regulators is going to be limited to your usual parts house brands (Bosch, Beck Arnley, etc etc). If you need to replace the regulator it came with I would get the exact original OEM replacement - besides my own stupidity causing problems, I have had awful experiences with cheaper fuel system parts deciding to suddenly fail internally or fountain gas out the side. Almost lost my daily driver to a leak that way once. I learned my lesson - you can spend $25 on the crappy part now, or ~$70-100 (your part cost may vary) on the correct one with an added risk of replacing the car.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It's got to be better to leave the working accumulator installed. Not only will it hold rest pressure but it also smooths out the pulse of power and pressure that some pumps make.

[Mydmc5898]

The reason I wanted to bypass it was if there was a fuel pressure problem...
I think I'm just getting confused.
Just to go over it quick... The car is using the 3.0 stock regulator with the accumulator.
I'm not sure what works or doesn't. With school I'm limited on time, so I have yet to check pressure.
The symptoms so far is that between 90-215 the car has issues starting.
I've played with all the cranking numbers and afterstart etc... And it will sometimes work fine and fire right up. Other times it will need to be cranked... Or if I turn the key on maybe a handful of times it will then start.
Once in a great while it struggles to find an idle and will want to stall.
I dropped all the afterstart numbers from 180 to 90 down to 100%
And it seems to help, but still has issues.

If I start the car at 190 or up, so long as it is within 5mins or so of shutting down, it starts just fine.
So it seems like a hot/warm start issue. That's why I thought if I dumb the accumulator it would be good.
Otherwise it runs perfect... Once it starts.

So first step I made a datalog while driving. Haven't been able to make one while it acts up.
I will try and upload it tonight.
Also I know I need to check fuel pressure. What pressure should I be looking at?
Just thinking too, is there a gauge I could add to always leave in the fuel feed to monitor the pressure. Like an analog gauge on line with the fuel line?
Would I add that on the pressure or return line too?
I'm sure most of these are stupid questions. But I just want to finish the 3.0 set up so I can work on other items in need of attention.

Thanks again guys, sorry to be a pain.

Anyone available to help over the phone?
I'm better at that.
I would still post updates here too, just so anyone else in my shoes could follow as well.

[dmc6960]

I haven't had a pressure test done yet.

The reason I wanted to bypass it was if there was a fuel pressure problem...

I think your have your order of operations a little out of order. Just stop and think about it.

[Mydmc5898]

I know, I didn't explain right at first.
I have been typing on my iPhone on breaks at work, so my messages are always rushed.
Bypassing was more or less an "if" question. Assuming the accumulator is bad and I have no or little pressure.
I thought since it wasn't needed anymore I could just dump it. Assuming (incorrectly) it would just screw up the system and be an unnecessary variable. And if the regulator is bad than what is the best fix? Replacing it with the same one, or use an after market. And is it best to add an inline gauge. Just for future tests. I haven't looked to see if they make an inline gauge.
Since I only have a short time at work to play with the car I'm trying to get as many "what ifs" out if the way now.

I'm just curious because it seems to be an intermittent issue.
All day it was running and starting fine, left work stopped to get gas and boom, stopped starting.
I want to identify all mechanical possibilities. This way it will just leave me the computer.... Hopefully.

But so I have it correct:
If low pressure
Accumulator doesn't matter if it works or not.
Keep the same type of regulator

Would this be it?

Thanks again,
Darryl

[AdmiralSenn]

I think your have your order of operations a little out of order. Just stop and think about it.

A thousand times this. Acquire an appropriate fuel pressure gauge and test that system. One of my biggest regrets is waiting as long as I did to put a proper fuel pressure tester on my car - I never correctly tested my K-Jet, but my EFI has had a gauge built in from day one. I probably could have fixed the system I had and done my EFI right the first time if I'd grabbed a gauge first.