By pass accumulator and adding regulator...

[Mydmc5898]

Being that I work 48+ hours a week and attend school on my days off, not counting all of my responsibilities at home. I simply lack the time to do the research to fix this myself.
Actually, to be honest in another forum I posted in, I did in fact pay $13,000 for an extensive amount of work to be done. Which included a fully running car. I have the receipts even!
But since that work wasn't preformed I've had to have a crash course. Had the work been properly done I would be asking about door realignments, or how best to refurbish the interior.
However no offensive taken.
I also had all of those programs downloaded (megatune not tuner studio to be honest) in which is now a missing laptop.
So I'm at the mercy of this board and Megasquirt forums.
So please excuse the silly questions.
This isn't meant to sound mean, but I feel it's best to explain why I'm in need of help.
But it's very frustrating doing the work that was paid for.

I will try and download the log programs I need in my friends computer, once that is done I will make a log.
Expect more questions lol.

Thanks again,
Darryl

[Mydmc5898]

So none of the surrounding stores has a VR sensor that is identical to what came with my EDIS kit. Using another one doesn't allow it to sit properly. I'll have to do a scavenger hunt for one.
Assuming all the hardware is working correctly, the module, coil pack, VR sensor... Should I start with the wires?
What order do I need to proceed to I guess is my question.

As far as the downloading goes, had to turn the laptop over to my friend for the night. I'll try and get those programs taken care of.

Thanks,
Darryl

[Spittybug]

I fold.

[Mydmc5898]

I know I pretty much require someone to walk me through step by step.
However I don't want to tie anyone's time up. But any ideas are welcomed. As of now I'm just taking the car home as is. I'm waiting on some MS forums as well. If its just the EDIS at least it's isolated. Any googling the symptoms came up with a a few possibilities.

[AdmiralSenn]

Fair warning: I haven't ever messed with ignition via MS, and trying to troubleshoot this kind of thing over the Internet is stupid hard. I didn't even think about spark not being present as a problem - goes to show you how much I know about troubleshooting other people's cars...

It sounds like you're on the right track with the EDIS system since your fuel pressure is good but I doubt there's anything further we can do that Matt wouldn't be able to do faster and more accurately. If any MS problem is fixable he's the one to go to. But I do agree with Owen, this sounds more like a hardware problem somewhere. It could be something as simple as a bad solder joint somewhere or a heat-damaged wire, or a dying sensor, or noise from another circuit - this last one is a particular problem on some installations, and DMCs tend to be pretty electrically noisy especially if the circuits go through bad grounds.

I second the suggestion that you use TunerStudio. I think pretty much everyone expects it before they'll be willing to help fix stuff.

I would get a good log of the VR sensor as it tries to start, make sure the pattern looks healthy, and proceed from there. If it looks like it's occasionally missing a tooth where it shouldn't be, then you've learned something. If it looks good across the board then you will need to diagnose parts and replace.

Are you using a toothed wheel on the crankshaft? I assume so since you're using EDIS but you never know.

I found a few things for you to read if you want to really get into this - and you may have to in order to understand and fix the problem. I don't recommend changing anything based on these just yet, just read them for the theory (for example MegaManual is somewhat old and assumes MegaTune for most of the settings).

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...t_vr_index.htm

[Mydmc5898]

I'm very sorry I didn't get your post, for some reason I never got an email from DMCTALK saying I got a response.

I am using a tooth 36-1 wheel.
I do have a promising update. I decided to check all the wiring again and also check out all the hardware.
I swapped out every part of the EDIS with the exception of the tooth wheel. Each time I had the same problems.
I decided to check the wiring because that has been a huge issue. And my gut was saying that was it.
Per a Autolabs forum. They suggested I run a ground wire to a bolt on the EDIS and ground it ( although i found mixed onfo if this works or not) to the valve cover (which I found has a nice leak).
I then ran the engine and experienced the same problems.
I also ran new spark plug wires on the chance one was bad. At the same time I went and checked every wire by taking off all coverings and also checking for any damage etc... I found that one of the wires from the VR was loose, as was a ground, but it still when I checked everytime tested good. After fixing all of those I seem to be good now!
Usually after the second crank it starts!
So now I just have to work on some start up settings.... Hopefully!

Thanks too for the help and suggestions, working on the setting now,
-Darryl

[Ron]

I'm very sorry I didn't get your post, for some reason I never got an email from DMCTALK saying I got a response.

If you don't subscribe to the thread, you will only get email notifications when you get PMs...

[Mydmc5898]

I was getting them at first, I thought anyway. Maybe I did something a didn't realize it.

[vwdmc16]

Hey Owen, im picking up more EFI parts, Getting this Aeromotive regulator and I was wondering how you connected/adapted the 12mm Banjo Fuel fitting from the filter to the -6 Inlet of the Regulator? I may end up relocated the Fuel Filter into the left side pontoon or something in which case I will have to make all sorts of new hoses. Just wondering if you found something to make it easier.

[Spittybug]

I moved my fuel filter into the engine bay. I had bad luck getting a banjo fitting from Jegs. The ones they kept sending did not thread into the hose (threads cut on exterior of the hard pipe that goes inside the braided hose) and relied only on the friction of the braiding inside the fitting end cap to not come off. No way.......not for the pressures we're talking. So I went with a tight radius fitting. You can see my regulator on the end of my fuel rail on the other side.

It's not your eyes, the entire cooling system has been moved to the driver's side to make a hole for the supercharger project (on summer hell hot hold).