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Thread: How do I wire a switch up to the hot start relay plug so I can start the car inside.

  1. #31
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Another way to test if it is the fuel pump check valve would be to put a manual valve into the return line and after you shut the motor down, shut the valve and see if it will hold rest pressure. If it does, your check valve is bad.
    David Teitelbaum
    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    You still would not know if the leak was elsewhere, but if it fixed your rest pressure you would know it's the PPR or FV that is leaking.
    Sounds better but, can you test the check valve by following David T description above?

    To me, if you have a bad check valve, still will lose presure if using this technique.

    LEVY
    I would work extra hard at whatever I was doing to become so good at it and that I would never have to kiss anyone's fanny to keep my job. And I never have and I never will.

    John Z. De Lorean

  2. #32
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LEVY View Post
    Sounds better but, can you test the check valve by following David T description above?

    To me, if you have a bad check valve, still will lose presure if using this technique.

    LEVY
    True. If the test did not fix the rest pressure time, you only know it's not the PPR or FV.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #33
    Senior Member Dangermouse's Avatar
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    Would the manual valve not need to be on the supply line to test the check valve?
    Dermot
    VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320

    I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans

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    No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangermouse View Post
    Would the manual valve not need to be on the supply line to test the check valve?
    You got it!

    Just waiting for a reply (excuse) from you know who!
    I would work extra hard at whatever I was doing to become so good at it and that I would never have to kiss anyone's fanny to keep my job. And I never have and I never will.

    John Z. De Lorean

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by LEVY View Post
    You got it!

    Just waiting for a reply (excuse) from you know who!
    Hi, waiting for me? The answer to your question is you put a valve AFTER the fuel pump in the supply line to test the check valve. As for testing for bursting pressure, you would shut the pump off first and then close the valve. To test the PPR you would put the valve in the return line (I may have mixed them up in a previous post, oops). Again, you would shut the valve only after you shut the pump off. In another thread the poster used a "C" clamp. Not as elegant but you do not have to undo any connections. As long as you know you have sufficiently blocked the line so it is not leaking and you don't collapse it. IMHO it is rare to have a problem with the PPR unless you have changed the original "O" rings. Much more likely the check valve is the problem. Even if it has been replaced!
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #36
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Temecula, California

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    Update on my starting problem

    Quote Originally Posted by LEVY View Post
    Sounds better but, can you test the check valve by following David T description above?

    To me, if you have a bad check valve, still will lose presure if using this technique.

    LEVY
    Well, it ended up being a bad check valve.
    It go's to show even a new part can be bad.

    I want to thank everybody for all the help.

    Thank you everybody.

    Robert
    Temecula, Ca

  7. #37
    Senior Member Azar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    On the white empty socket in the relay compartment there are 3 wires. If you connect the white/red to the Blue/black the cold start injector will fire whenever the starter is cranking. Don't just put in a jumper or most of the time you'll flood the engine. But a pushbutton switch will come in handy.

    The factory intended a relay that would pulse the cold-start only when very hot, but I don't believe that they ever came up with the actual part. Dave Bitsyncmaster has apparently invented one.
    Hi Dave, are these definitely white/red and the Blue/black? I red somewhere else that it is blue/black and black... Thanks!

  8. #38
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azar View Post
    Hi Dave, are these definitely white/red and the Blue/black? I red somewhere else that it is blue/black and black... Thanks!
    Blue/black to Black is correct. The hot start relay grounds that blue/black when engine is cranking.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #39
    Senior Member Azar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Blue/black to Black is correct. The hot start relay grounds that blue/black when engine is cranking.
    Thanks, checked with the Diagramm already. The other one is 12V

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