What you need is a heat sink inside the tank and continuing outside the tank. But I still would not want that heat sink sticking below closing plate.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
What you need is a heat sink inside the tank and continuing outside the tank. But I still would not want that heat sink sticking below closing plate.
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 49
My VIN: 01067
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
The problem persists! I need help stat !
So I have installed a new DMC fuel pump and after driving for about 20 90deg heat in city traffic. Water temps are well below 220f. The fuel in the tank is cool (I checked). The pump starts screaming so I have pulled over to let things cool down. I have replaced every component in the system over the past year. She runs fine in cold weather.
No one seems to know what's up. I'm hoping someone can help.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Forgive me if you've mentioned this before, but have you confirmed good voltage and good ground at the pump itself?
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
How did you check the tank temp? I bet if you stuck you hand into the open tank you would feel really hot fuel. Do you have the new DMC pump and sender or just a new old style pump?Originally Posted by dvfr750f
Location: Co
Posts: 326
My VIN: 2245
Could it be the fuel pickup line getting kinked?
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
A couple things that it would be good to know:
1. Is this pump getting 12V with a solid and dedicated ground?
2. You mentioned you had John's pump in the car - which one? His $89 one? His power pump? Bosch 957 pump? What pump specifically of his was in the car?
3. I read that you had the stock fuel baffle kit in the car - when you bought John's pump, did you ever get his fuel baffle kit? Picture below is what I am referring to:
fuel-tank-baff5.jpg
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Brea, CA
Posts: 602
My VIN: 3757
Ah... When you said the new DMC pump...you are not talking about the new combo unit, right? I have it, and it is GREAT...
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
Agreed. Definitely worth the money - nice quiet pump, and the pump is always submerged with fresh fuel from the return line.
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 49
My VIN: 01067
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
So I have John herveys pump kit with the 'tuna can'. I tend to go thru pumps in the summer so heat is the culprit, but how?
Here is what I think.
I am getting 12.46 v at the pump when under load. The RPM relay is functioning and looks clean, but does have a slightly burnt odor to it. It does get quite hot while driving. Anyone know what the normal op temp is for this?
I bought a new pump from DMC(looks identical to Herveys pump). I installed it and after about 30 min in city traffic on a 90 deg day it began to cavitate.
I pulled over checked the fuel by removing the send unit and just sticking a finger in. The fuel didnt feel very hot. The water temp was mid way from btm to the 220 mark. I then placed a bag of ice right ontop of the fuel lines and the pump(top), let her sit for an hour then drove home. I managed to make it the 10 miles home. The pump screamed the whole way.
SOOOO, I believe it is a heat problem but not an electrical one.
I recently overhauled the entire cooling system to include a new radiator and elec fans. Before this, one of the original fans was not functioning so now the car is pulling ALOT more heat from the radiator and sending that heated air right over the tank and superheating the fuel lines and the top of the pump. I also am getting a fuel odor in the cabin. I suspect that this is the problem.
Today I fabricated an air dam out of thin sheet metal and this has removed ALL air from the radiator to being pushed over the tank. I also put a foam insulation over the two fuel lines. I will drive tomorrow and see how she performs.
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 64
My VIN: 01279
you should use the same product used in the exhaust headers as
cover the cooling tubes in the fuel tank area
controlling the transfer of heat between the cooling tubes and the gas tank
so the fuel pump is not affected by heat and the engine will have better performance
Heat is the horsepower and performance killer.
http://www.thermotec.com/products/11...ader-wrap.html
Dave M vin 03572
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