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Thread: How To: Auto Trans GC removal and rebuild video

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Posts:    122

    How To: Auto Trans GC removal and rebuild video

    Finally got the video put together in a complete but albeit amatuerish fashion for the removal and rebuilding of the GC for my automatic transmission.

    This effort cost me less than $15 in parts and about 3 to 4 hours of effort. I believe my desire not to pull the GC out completely to reduce the time required actually made it more difficult and extended the time. Since this repair I've put over 800 miles on her with no problems what so ever.

    I used an online editor called 'Loopster.com' to combine and edit this video and there was a time limit of 10 minutes so I broke it up into two parts. Here's the links on YouTube for the videos:

    Part 1 - http://youtu.be/Oo5O16Nonus

    Part 2 - http://youtu.be/CN8THoKe2vo

    Hope this helps. Remember to follow all the standard safety precautions and practices such as sturdy jack stands, wheel chocks, fire extenquisher handy, safty glasses, etc.

  2. #2
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Location:  North GA

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    Thanks for the VIDs -- I think they will convince more people to tackle the job themselves.

    One thing - The transistors should not "clear the cover". The wire spring you didn't find holds the transistors against the cover (w/ heat-sink paste) to help dissipate heat (maybe not a problem with your high watt replacements...).

    Other replacement part numbers, upgrades, and technical info here.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Posts:    122

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Thanks for the VIDs -- I think they will convince more people to tackle the job themselves.

    One thing - The transistors should not "clear the cover". The wire spring you didn't find holds the transistors against the cover (w/ heat-sink paste) to help dissipate heat (maybe not a problem with your high watt replacements...).

    Other replacement part numbers, upgrades, and technical info here.

    Actually.. I did find the wire spring but just didn't comment on it as I should have. Since my transistors weren't installed correctly, the are pressed tight against the top cap with out the spring. I did put the spring back into the GC box so that when the next poor shmuck has to do the job 30 years from now they will have the spring so they can do the job correctly. Your point will well advised. Thanks Ron!

  4. #4
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrkey View Post
    I did put the spring back into the GC box so that when the next poor shmuck has to do the job 30 years from now they will have the spring so they can do the job correctly.
    LOL\
    My kind of guy (few an far between these days)!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    605

    Please let us know when you have to open it again because you did not do the important stuff.


    Changing those resistors is pretty useless, but I already wrote what needs to be done to have
    a reliable car.


    BTW - I made tests what happens with PCBs when ther get in touch with water and electricity.
    looks awesome...

    Hope you sealed the whole thing before you put the PCBs back in and the lid back on.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Posts:    122

    Quote Originally Posted by Elvis View Post
    Please let us know when you have to open it again because you did not do the important stuff.


    Changing those resistors is pretty useless, but I already wrote what needs to be done to have
    a reliable car.


    BTW - I made tests what happens with PCBs when ther get in touch with water and electricity.
    looks awesome...

    Hope you sealed the whole thing before you put the PCBs back in and the lid back on.
    Should it fail this group will be the first to know!

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