Is my window regulator dead?

[gongloo]

tl;dr: Will a window regulator 'burn out' if the switch gets stuck in the up position for too long?

A while back I went to roll down my Driver's side window and noticed that the rocker switch had gotten wedged into the up position somehow. My guess is that I hit it with my elbow at some point while driving, and I have no idea how long it had been stuck like that (potentially a full hour of driving or so). The window will not roll down. I don't hear any movement or struggle whatsoever from the window/regulator.

I checked the fuse, and my passenger window works fine as well. My fear is that I've 'burnt out' my window regulator and will have to replace it. Are there any obvious points that I should check before pulling apart the door and checking with a multimeter to see if the window regulator is getting any power?

Advice appreciated.

[Ron]

I'd try swapping the switches first... Or pull the one and connect the wires straight to the motor ("regulator").

[DMCMW Dave]

Usually the switch will melt before the motor fails.

[DMC5180]

I'd try swapping the switches first... Or pull the one and connect the wires straight to the motor ("regulator").

It requires 2 jumper wires to complete motion circuit which is a little bit of a pain. You can probably use a couple paperclips DO NOT LET THEM TOUCH EACH OTHER you will get an instant blown fuse. . swapping with the knownworking switch is better. Also look for a hot melted spade in the switch connector housing.

[Dangermouse]

Some modern regulator motors have an internal thermal overload that resets after the motor cools down (a few minutes).

I presume the ones in the D don't

[DMCMW Dave]

Some modern regulator motors have an internal thermal overload that resets after the motor cools down (a few minutes).

I presume the ones in the D don't

Nope. Just a motor that locks up and melts the switch.

[Dangermouse]

So, an external thermal overload then !

[gongloo]

Swapped the switches tonight. Passenger side still works, driver's side still dead.

It would seem that my next step is to pull out the multimeter, unless someone has another suggestion.

[Ron]

Yep. You'll need this: