Now this thread belongs in the How-to/Resources Section.
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Now this thread belongs in the How-to/Resources Section.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: 38.09080 N 23.8005 E
Posts: 2,038
My VIN: MMMMMCMXCII
Freak! You got some amazing future telling skills!!!!!Originally Posted by 1batt4u
I bet Josh DPI is working on a S/S one.
Great installation guide there! Thumbs up!!
VIN 5992/Body 5697/Frame 6000/Grey/Manual/ALL LED/Square HALOs/SPAX/DMOCO SS shifter/Genuine MOMO steering/iPhone base/Porsche turbo 997 exhaust/K&N/ SS: f.fascia mounts, brake lines, clutch line+fuel line+tank cover+heat shields/Posi-quiet brake pads/Poly: steering rack inserts+f.sway bar bushing+radius bushing/wings-a-loft/Radius enforced tabs n bolts/turbo fans... Oh! + a BTTF on/off replica set etc (still adding)
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 490
My VIN: 04194: 5-Speed, Black Int, 79 Peugeot 604 Manifold, 05052: 5-Speed, Gray Int, 78 Peugeot 604 manifol
My gear shift lever had been welded by a previous owner. However, the weld ultimately broke while trying to free up a rusted shift cable. I ended up taking the assembly to a local welding shop who was able to re-weld it for about $25. It has worked fine great for 10 years and 20,000+ miles. The only drawback is that I don't have the reverse lockout safety feature...which is something I always remind myself of when downshifting to 2nd gear! :-)
Location: Parker, TX
Posts: 731
My VIN: #1283
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
The only thing I would add is that it is a lot easier to do the above disassembly with the "fork" removed. See picture and you see what I mean. So I pressed out the approx. 3" long pin (arrow) and after that it was a 10 second job. Another reason to remove the fork is that it allows you to remove all the internals (spring, washers) and give it a good degrease/regrease. Mine was pretty gooey inside.
Now, my SS shifter (DPI) is catching and doesn't slide up and down very smoothly at this point but once the stainless wears away some of the softer carbon steel I anticipate that it will be as smooth as new.
20150517_130154.jpg
Location: Mosinee, Wis.
Posts: 632
My VIN: 00778 and Formerly 06770.
I'd like to remove my gear shift assembly and pull the gear changer tubes out as well so I can clean up that entire area. It's the perfect time to throw in some new shift bushings and new pivot bolts, etc. I need to degrease the shift assembly...looks like a grease bomb went off in there, and it's also covered with 30+ years of dust and grime. I plan on painting the shift stick and after reading this thread I should probably be checking it for cracks as well. I also plan on doing a cross cable adjustment as in reverse the roll pin falls off the little shelf. My question is after cleaning the shifting assembly, how and what should I grease and what kind of grease is good to use?
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