SPLIT: NO ILLUMINATION on Headlight/Hazard/Instrument Cluster/Cig Lighter...

[kajcienski]

This is driving me absolutely bonkers guys. I am splitting from my earlier thread because I now have more specific info (and one symptom was incorrect in previous thread). I am great at certain things, but my knowledge and understanding of the electrical stuff on a DeLorean is not that good at all - so bear with me. I might be over-explaining this for a simple solution. I am praying I don't have to take the console out again to fix this - I did it twice today already.

Preface... This all happened after I took the console and console bracket out to do a couple of things: One was to replace the AC Mode Switch, two was to wrap up the unused light sockets that illuminate the AC panel because I made one that uses LEDs and only need one power tap off one of the sockets (and as mentioned below, the AC panel lights just fine). And third thing is I did some "clean-up" and wrapped some messy wiring up.

So... What works: Headlight switch works, hazards work, the AC panel lights up, shifter selector light works (auto trans), and there is power to the cigarette lighter.

And... What doesn't work: Headlight and hazard switch illumination, cigarette lighter illumination, and instrument cluster illumination.

Also... Things I have checked: All grounds that bolt to the console bracket have been cleaned and secured. I see no wires I could have left off of ground. No loose plugs or wires, and no unconnected wires that were not previously connected before taking the console apart (although I did remove a pink wire that went nowhere from the rheostat). Headlight relay was checked and even replaced with an extra. I have not checked any fuses because I assume the AC panel lights share the applicable fuse and the AC panel lights just fine. Help! Many thanks in advance - And especially for reading my novice diagnostic attempt.

[kings1527]

This is driving me absolutely bonkers guys. I am splitting from my earlier thread because I now have more specific info (and one symptom was incorrect in previous thread). I am great at certain things, but my knowledge and understanding of the electrical stuff on a DeLorean is not that good at all - so bear with me. I might be over-explaining this for a simple solution. I am praying I don't have to take the console out again to fix this - I did it twice today already.

Preface... This all happened after I took the console and console bracket out to do a couple of things: One was to replace the AC Mode Switch, two was to wrap up the unused light sockets that illuminate the AC panel because I made one that uses LEDs and only need one power tap off one of the sockets (and as mentioned below, the AC panel lights just fine). And third thing is I did some "clean-up" and wrapped some messy wiring up.

So... What works: Headlight switch works, hazards work, the AC panel lights up, shifter selector light works (auto trans), and there is power to the cigarette lighter.

And... What doesn't work: Headlight and hazard switch illumination, cigarette lighter illumination, and instrument cluster illumination.

Also... Things I have checked: All grounds that bolt to the console bracket have been cleaned and secured. I see no wires I could have left off of ground. No loose plugs or wires, and no unconnected wires that were not previously connected before taking the console apart (although I did remove a pink wire that went nowhere from the rheostat). Headlight relay was checked and even replaced with an extra. I have not checked any fuses because I assume the AC panel lights share the applicable fuse and the AC panel lights just fine. Help! Many thanks in advance - And especially for reading my novice diagnostic attempt.

Hey Matt,

It's a blown fuse. I went through the exact same thing when converting to LEDs. Thank Jon for this fix.

It's fuse 8 and the reason why it will blow is because the LED has metal contacts that wrap fully around the base of the LED. Take your fingernail and gently pull the contact out until its sticking straight out. Now take some small wire cutters and cut the contact just behind the plastic LED hub. Now you'll have the lead only in one side instead of wrapping fully around.

Making contact on both sides of the socket shorts the circuit out and blows the fuse.

[WelmoedJ]

Hey Matt,

It's a blown fuse. I went through the exact same thing when converting to LEDs. Thank Jon for this fix.

It's fuse 8 and the reason why it will blow is because the LED has metal contacts that wrap fully around the base of the LED. Take your fingernail and gently pull the contact out until its sticking straight out. Now take some small wire cutters and cut the contact just behind the plastic LED hub. Now you'll have the lead only in one side instead of wrapping fully around.

Making contact on both sides of the socket shorts the circuit out and blows the fuse.

This advice only applies to the LEDs inside the head light and warning light switches, not to other LEDs used.
Be aware of the fact that LEDs are polarized, that is, power and ground do matter (it's a 50/50 change putting it in correctly).
If not lit when a LED ought to be ON, change its position in the socket.

[kajcienski]

Hey Matt,

It's a blown fuse. I went through the exact same thing when converting to LEDs. Thank Jon for this fix.

It's fuse 8 and the reason why it will blow is because the LED has metal contacts that wrap fully around the base of the LED. Take your fingernail and gently pull the contact out until its sticking straight out. Now take some small wire cutters and cut the contact just behind the plastic LED hub. Now you'll have the lead only in one side instead of wrapping fully around.

Making contact on both sides of the socket shorts the circuit out and blows the fuse.

Thanks! This solves the the headlight switch illumination issue. I switched back to the regular bulbs in both switches until this issue is solved. One down, 3 more problems to go! It seems now that certain things triggered by pushing the headlight switch is plain dead - Hazard/Instrument Cluster/Cigarette Lighter illumination. Not too keen on driving without the instrument cluster illumination... Could this be something in the switch itself causing certain things not to illuminate?

[kajcienski]

Update: I put a brand new relay in for the headlights and the cigarette illumination came on. I have NO clue whether this actually had anything to do with it working now. The hazard and instrument cluster illumination is still out. One extra thought: Could the LED shorting in the Hazard Switch have blown something else? Causing the loss to Hazard/Instrument Cluster...?

Also, want to be sure the rheostat is hooked up right... I labeled the wires when I took it apart so those are in right order, but I chucked a pink wire that went on the 2nd prong because it didn't connect to anything. Is this correct?

[DeLorean03]

Are you 100% sure you put the wires back on the rheostat in the correct order? If they are not in the correct order, you may lose instrument cluster illumination. I am darn sure this happened to me at one point too.

[Dangermouse]

On the rheostat, there should be five wires configured in three connections (two double wires and a single wire) Two sets of double Red/Orange and a single Red/White (which may look pink). It is this last one that is connected to the panel illumination.

What do you mean by "it doesn't go anywhere"?

The rheostat is item 24 on the schematic.

[kajcienski]

And the award for world's biggest bonehead goes to... Wait for it... Wait for it... MOI! After changing out the #8 fuse that was blown, I forgot to hook the rheostat wires back up after that. All AOK! By the way, the pink wire on pin 2 of the rheostat was for a radio dimmer, hence was not connected to anything. Wow, this was embarrassing. However the LED info was extremely helpful along with fuse #8. Thanks as always guys!

[DeLorean03]

And the award for world's biggest bonehead goes to... Wait for it... Wait for it... MOI! After changing out the #8 fuse that was blown, I forgot to hook the rheostat wires back up after that. All AOK! By the way, the pink wire on pin 2 of the rheostat was for a radio dimmer, hence was not connected to anything. Wow, this was embarrassing. However the LED info was extremely helpful along with fuse #8. Thanks as always guys!

Glad it was something simple !

[Dangermouse]

That's funny because I just put in a radio that had a pink wire but nowhere to connect it to