Engine bay cleanup/restoration advice

[Mark D]

The part number is 8741. It's the 4" black duct...

Derp. Actually it's 3" duct, not 4". Please excuse the typo

[Stainless]

Derp. Actually it's 3" duct, not 4". Please excuse the typo

I never knew what the stove piping was for, so this was very informative for me. Living in Utah, like Wisconsin, it gets very cold in the winter, when I imagine the stove pipe would make the biggest difference. Have you noticed any change since you changed over to the alternative 3" direct duct and eliminated the diverter valve, or was this change only for looks? While I really like it, I almost feel that if it ain't broke, I shouldn't bother with it right now. But $20 for that duct is a small price to pay to make that part of the engine compartment look much better.

Is the part on the exhaust manifold hard to get to? I don't think I've ever looked at that part of the engine for access. How difficult that portion of it is may determine whether or not I go down this path.

[Mark D]

The only differences I have noticed are positive... A few extra horsepower and a little more responsiveness on the throttle. It's had no ill effect on idle in cold weather.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I've always understood that the intent of the stove pipe setup was to reduce CO/NOx emissions during engine warmup.

I got rid of it mostly for performance reasons but it also cleans up the engine bay nicely... especially if the stove pipe has started rusting. The main issue I have is that it is very restrictive to air flow. If the flapper valve gets stuck it makes things even worse.

You don't need to remove the metal intake shroud that is bolted to the passenger side exhaust manifold, but since mine was rusty and crappy looking I took it off. It's just a couple of bolts that are relatively easy to get to.

I think the whole process took me about an hour.

[Stainless]

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far. The stainless stickers from Tamir are a no-go for me right now. I can't justify the price.

I believe there is only one remaining question from my first post that I still haven't gotten an answer to:

-Retaining brackets and clips on lower engine cover are rusty - easy to refinish or better to buy new?

I reviewed the blog at http://delorean6575revisited.blogspo...ent-front.html and saw the full restoration, but I don't know if I want do do the whole thing as the top of my engine cover looks great. I was hoping to only improve the look of the brackets on the back side at this time.

Please keep the recommendations coming if you have any more.

[Stainless]

A few answers here:

• Air filter assembly looks dusty, even though it's clean - can this be refinished with paint? A: Dusty? It looks like it has the typical nylon injection molding swirl patterns in it. You can try to wet-sand it with 600 or higher paper and see if it looks better. Try a part of it in the back first. Don't paint it.
• Coolant tank cap is rusty in the pictures, but I replaced that last year already. A: Replace it again. And keep the car dry.
• Engine bay light has never worked since I owned the car. Where do I start with troubleshooting this? Is it controlled by the switch by the resistor? A: Yes, that's the switch. Bad lamp, bad ground, bad socket, bad switch? Easy to troubleshoot.
• Coolant hoses - although they are not in need of being replaced, they look faded. Any recommendations on making them appear new again? A: Try any one of a number of good rubber restoration sprays. Wet a rag and rub it in. Black Again is one. Meguire's Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner is another. NOT ArmorAll or vinyl "conditioner". If the hoses are old then replace them instead and solve two problems.

Thank you! Any particular reason that you don't recommend painting the air filter assembly but instead recommend wet sanding it?

[Bitsyncmaster]

The #1 thing for engine clean up is to get those harnesses from crossing the front of the engine. Remove the engine lift rings (they just get in the way). Cut the extra metal off your brackets and castings.

[SS Spoiler]

When I did the valley I took the time to grind/sand all the sharp edges of the intake manifold. Using finer and finer abrasives I got it down to a shiny polish. It really dresses up the motor and doesn't cost a lot, just time.

[Stainless]

The #1 thing for engine clean up is to get those harnesses from crossing the front of the engine. Remove the engine lift rings (they just get in the way). Cut the extra metal off your brackets and castings.

I believe I have seen write-ups on how to perform this mod, but do you know where I can find it?

I'm not sure I've heard about the engine lift ring removal or cutting off extra metal off brackets and castings. Can you go into greater detail about those?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I believe I have seen write-ups on how to perform this mod, but do you know where I can find it?

I'm not sure I've heard about the engine lift ring removal or cutting off extra metal off brackets and castings. Can you go into greater detail about those?

The engine lift rings just unbolt. Save them if you ever need to pull the engine.

The throttle bracket has places for things not used. Just take a hacksaw to it. My resistor bracket has removed the relay so I cut that also. I use the volvo ISM so no bracket is needed to hold it. If you need photos, I can take some to post.

[Farrar]

If you remove the engine lift rings, where do you clamp the negative cable when you jump-start the car?