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Thread: engine bar wiring harness

  1. #11
    Member The Aviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Right here on DMCTalk is Dave Delman's pinout of the bulkhead terminals.
    Have I told u, u are the man?!

    Farrar what did u do to ur wiring harness? Did u just unplug was want necessary and let it hang or did u cut it up?

    Also what did u do for ur distributor? I see in those schematics there's a wiring harness coming from the coil to the dizzy and then the dizzy to the dmc's ecu did u just unplug them?

    When I talked to bill all those years ago I don't remember him mentioning having to alter the dizzy or coil, in gonna have to hunt around in the carb section and see

    I like Dave's pin outs at the end of those pictures, I'm curious to how much I can delete and still have the engine run! Lol

  2. #12
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    I did not know about BritishWiring.com until I had already done my carb conversion.

    What I did was after the conversion, I went over to the bulkhead connectors, traced each to its end, and removed the harnesses that weren't being used. Then I unwrapped all of the ones that were left, and cut off the individual wires that went to things that were no longer being used. I made some mistakes along the way -- accidentally cut off the power for the engine compartment light -- oops!

    If I had known about BritishWiring.com at that time I would have made my own harnesses for choke heater, etc. But life is full of "I wish I knew then what I know now," so live and learn, right?

    In fact, when I get some more cash together I plan on making another order from them so I can make a fresh harness, because some of the stock wires which I am still using are far too long, and instead of shortening them I just made a loop and tied it with a zip-tie. It's pretty ugly back there!
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  3. #13
    Member The Aviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I did not know about BritishWiring.com until I had already done my carb conversion.

    What I did was after the conversion, I went over to the bulkhead connectors, traced each to its end, and removed the harnesses that weren't being used. Then I unwrapped all of the ones that were left, and cut off the individual wires that went to things that were no longer being used. I made some mistakes along the way -- accidentally cut off the power for the engine compartment light -- oops!

    If I had known about BritishWiring.com at that time I would have made my own harnesses for choke heater, etc. But life is full of "I wish I knew then what I know now," so live and learn, right?

    In fact, when I get some more cash together I plan on making another order from them so I can make a fresh harness, because some of the stock wires which I am still using are far too long, and instead of shortening them I just made a loop and tied it with a zip-tie. It's pretty ugly back there!
    Yeah that's how I have done a few engine swaps, use the factory harness and trace everything to where it goes

    I've also wired a few race cars and made my own harnesses with painless products and its very nice every wire is labeled where to go

    Once I get on a pc im going to edit Dave's bulkhead pic and make alittle red X's of what I think I can delete ( on my case makin a harness not add lol)

    Then ill post it up and see if these guys can check and make sure I didn't miss anything

  4. #14
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
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    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  5. #15
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    And don't forget some of these and these
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #16
    Member The Aviator's Avatar
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    U guys are great!! Is there a thread about what u use to fill the injectors? Do the injectors thread in? It's been so long I forgot, and do u use bolts that just thread into where the injectors go?

  7. #17
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    The injectors sit in rubber boots which are held down with clips.

    I used high-temperature silicone plugs for my injector holes. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr. I tried looking up the product on their website, but they only keep order history for two years back. Sorry about that.

    To figure out which plug to use, I measured the injector boot and ordered a tapered plug with the same diameter at the small end. Works perfectly. They're orange, but I don't care. Do you have a boot to measure? If not, I'll go and pull one of my silicone plugs and measure it for you.

    EDIT: I found it -- product number 9277K82 from McMaster. Comes in packs of 25, so you'll have some spares.
    Last edited by Farrar; 06-15-2013 at 05:06 PM.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #18
    Member The Aviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    The injectors sit in rubber boots which are held down with clips.

    I used high-temperature silicone plugs for my injector holes. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr. I tried looking up the product on their website, but they only keep order history for two years back. Sorry about that.

    To figure out which plug to use, I measured the injector boot and ordered a tapered plug with the same diameter at the small end. Works perfectly. They're orange, but I don't care. Do you have a boot to measure? If not, I'll go and pull one of my silicone plugs and measure it for you.

    EDIT: I found it -- product number 9277K82 from McMaster. Comes in packs of 25, so you'll have some spares.
    I wish this forum had rep point system because I'd be racking up ur rep history!!

    Farrar do u have a close up picture of the plugs?

    Do u use bolts to hold the silicone plugs in?!

  9. #19
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    No, I don't use bolts. They're just slightly bigger than the injector bungs, so once I press them in with my thumb, they're not going anywhere until I pull them out again, and they're vacuum-tight.

    I'll get a pic for you later today when I go out to work on the car.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    No, I don't use bolts. They're just slightly bigger than the injector bungs, so once I press them in with my thumb, they're not going anywhere until I pull them out again, and they're vacuum-tight.

    I'll get a pic for you later today when I go out to work on the car.
    How is it they don't come shooting out? Nothing holds them in beside the force u shoved them in with?

    Wonder if copper header silicone would be a good idea to put on them when installing them?

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