Original problem solved (user error). But it still begs the question about troubleshooting an Ignition Control Module/unit.
Original problem solved (user error). But it still begs the question about troubleshooting an Ignition Control Module/unit.
Last edited by nkemp; 06-27-2013 at 05:48 PM.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
A replacement/test unit sounds like the best way.
I think I have my intermittent dying problem solved. But I now drive the car with a bit of concern and worry. Recently I saw this elsewhere... "A failing ignition control module can be a real headache at times. It can produce a wide range of engine performance problems, including preventing the engine from starting or stalling the engine as you speed down the road, just to let you resume your driving a few minutes later, as if nothing had happened."
I think my problem was inertia switch or ground related.
Thanks for the input,
Nick
Dont forget Nick that there ARE a small handful of local DeLoreans active and driving. If you ever needed to borrow a part I could easily stop by sometime.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise
Location: Syracuse, NY area
Posts: 1,025
My VIN: 10287
Club(s): (DMA)
Here I am dusting off older threads again but I am starting to think my ignition ECU is dead. I have been troubleshooting an ignition issue for a month now (working slowly and on several projects) and I have run out of anything else to try. Besides being the last item on the list I read here on the forum that if the tach doesn't move when cranking the ignition ECU becomes a suspect. I tested the plug to the ignition module with an icepick light and it is getting power. Fuse 1 is good. My car is a high mileage (100k+) car so maybe the module is toast?
Would it be possible to call a vendor and perhaps put a deposit down to borrow an ECU to test? I have read some owners are using Ford or GM modules. How are Autozone or Advance with returning electrical parts? I don't want to buy one and not have it solve the problem and be stuck with it.
Nick A.
1988 BMW 325is
1982 DeLorean DMC-12
1989 Jaguar XJ6
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The best trouble shooting chart is in the Tech Manual pages 125-126. If you don't have it the most common problems are;
Not using an OEM Bosch ignition coil
Bad pick-up coil or bad connection
Low system voltage (must be higher than 11 volts!).
Bad connection on the ballast resistor, the connections get rusty.
Bad wires, cap or rotor.
The place to start is to see if you get spark out of the coil while cranking. The ECU is the LAST thing that fails. Very rare.
David Teitelbaum
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Location: Syracuse, NY area
Posts: 1,025
My VIN: 10287
Club(s): (DMA)
Replaced the original coil in 2017 with an OEM Bosch coil. It's getting power and measuring .6 Ohms primary resistance
Bought a new battery a few weeks ago, reading 12.5 Volts
Replaced the terminals on the ballast resistor
Wires, cap and rotor replaced in 2017 (Bougicord and whatever PJ Grady sent to me),,
Hmmm pickup coil.... What test would rule that out? Like I stated earlier, I saw no spark on one of the plugs and the tach is not moving
Nick A.
1988 BMW 325is
1982 DeLorean DMC-12
1989 Jaguar XJ6