burning up thrmo time switches

[Bikercmbc]

The car wouldnt start, switched the plugs and it will start and run fine. narrowed it down to the TTS. replaced the TTS with a nos one. car started up just fine after it was replace. the next time tried to start same problem. why would the TTS be getting burned up? starter sometimes sticks and does not spin, could this be sending too many amps to the TTS and burning them up?? or just coincidence and try to replace it again?

[DMCMW Dave]

The car wouldnt start, switched the plugs and it will start and run fine. narrowed it down to the TTS. replaced the TTS with a nos one. car started up just fine after it was replace. the next time tried to start same problem. why would the TTS be getting burned up? starter sometimes sticks and does not spin, could this be sending too many amps to the TTS and burning them up?? or just coincidence and try to replace it again?

That will happen if it is hooked up backwards. Which should not be possible due to the indexing on the plug, but if someone reversed the wiring (even at the factory) it will burn out the heater.

It can't sent amps, only volts, and 12 volts will not burn out the heater. 12 volts across the switch part of the thermotime switch will burn it out.

[Bikercmbc]

ok, it shouldn't have been hooked up backwards. I have two more NOS TTS so I guess I will replace it again and see what happens.

Thanks Dave

[sdg3205]

Dave,

The Lambda switch, also on the Y-pipe with the spade connector... how often do those fail?

My Lambda system/FV kept operating at around 50% no matter what, which led me to believe my O2 sensor and/or lambda switch was toast. I've gone ahead and replaced both but still have to finish putting the intake back together for testing and adjustment, but I was just curious.

I'm going to reset the baseline for the injectors with the bottles, then go for mixture from there.

[DMC5180]

ok, it shouldn't have been hooked up backwards. I have two more NOS TTS so I guess I will replace it again and see what happens.

Thanks Dave

Gee, are you hoarding NOS TTS's? Can never have too many I guess.

[Bikercmbc]

Bought out an old dealerships stock of nos parts. Had three of them in the inventory.

[DMC5180]

Bought out an old dealerships stock of nos parts. Had three of them in the inventory.

Cool, Did you get a left front fender or grooved trunk lid in the deal or any other N/A parts in the acquisition. Out of curiosity who was the Old Dealer?

[DMCMW Dave]

ok, it shouldn't have been hooked up backwards. I have two more NOS TTS so I guess I will replace it again and see what happens.

Thanks Dave

I'd check for shorts. They are getting too scarce/expensive to blow up as a test.

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave,

The Lambda switch, also on the Y-pipe with the spade connector... how often do those fail?

My Lambda system/FV kept operating at around 50% no matter what, which led me to believe my O2 sensor and/or lambda switch was toast..

Never seen one fail. For what you are seeing it would have to fail closed. Easy to test, just disconnect it and see if that solves your problem.

OR measure it with an ohm meter. It is a switch. Should be open all the time unless you put it in your freezer for a while.

[Delorean02378]

Kyle was kind enough to post this for me as he's been helping me get 10989 back on the road. Unfortunately, I'm stuck at work all day today.

I switched the ThermoTime switch out and it fired right up. Let it run for a few minutes then shut it down. Tried it again and it fired right up.
Let it sit for 2 hours and it went back to it's old ways of turning over but not starting. Seems like it's not getting gas (the car has the new fuel/pump combination kit and a new accumulator kit) The car also has the nology stage 1 set up and Kyle just replaced the plugs with new ones from DMCMW

Tried it again on Wednesday and it would turn over but not start. I poured a little gas in the intake and it fired right up.

If you switch out the plugs on the cold start valve it will also fire right up.

Dave could a bad starter have anything to do with it shorting out? It works most of the time but sometimes it just clicks and doesn't turn over. I have an original starter in good condition that (with Kyle's help) can switch out and probably will.

Any suggestions of where to begin testing for shorts? Any other ideas?