burning up thrmo time switches

[Bitsyncmaster]

You need to test if the CSV is working. Put a voltmeter on the two CSV pins and when the car is cranking you should get 12 volts if your engine temp is below 95 deg.

[Bikercmbc]

we did that, with the csv cranking there is no 12v before we replaced the TTS. 12v at the WUR thats why we switched went towards the TTS. once the TTS was replaced the CSV would work briefly. guess we can check that tonight if we are getting the 12v needed at the CSV with the new TTS installed.

Don't know which dealership it was, kirk got the parts from a guy in the ATL area who bought the inventory. no LFF or anything super rare, just the usual gaskets, seals and different parts that are still mostly available.

[Delorean02378]

we did that, with the csv cranking there is no 12v before we replaced the TTS. 12v at the WUR thats why we switched went towards the TTS. once the TTS was replaced the CSV would work briefly. guess we can check that tonight if we are getting the 12v needed at the CSV with the new TTS installed.

Don't know which dealership it was, kirk got the parts from a guy in the ATL area who bought the inventory. no LFF or anything super rare, just the usual gaskets, seals and different parts that are still mostly available.

With the exception of a brand new NOS Clock still in the original packaging. BINGO! I'll save that one for my dad's car.

[Bikercmbc]

yeah, didnt know if you wanted everyone to know about it, thats why I left it out.

[DMCMW Dave]

Kyle was kind enough to post this for me as he's been helping me get 10989 back on the road. Unfortunately, I'm stuck at work all day today.

I switched the ThermoTime switch out and it fired right up. Let it run for a few minutes then shut it down. Tried it again and it fired right up.
Let it sit for 2 hours and it went back to it's old ways of turning over but not starting. Seems like it's not getting gas (the car has the new fuel/pump combination kit and a new accumulator kit) The car also has the nology stage 1 set up and Kyle just replaced the plugs with new ones from DMCMW

Tried it again on Wednesday and it would turn over but not start. I poured a little gas in the intake and it fired right up.

If you switch out the plugs on the cold start valve it will also fire right up.

Dave could a bad starter have anything to do with it shorting out? It works most of the time but sometimes it just clicks and doesn't turn over. I have an original starter in good condition that (with Kyle's help) can switch out and probably will.

Any suggestions of where to begin testing for shorts? Any other ideas?

Not powered by the starter itself. The TTS is actually powered by the same white-red wire that keys the starter. Unless you have some strange wiring problem, if the starter is getting power so is the TTS.

You can test the TTS with an ohm meter. There are two pins on the TTS. IF COLD one pin will measure a short to ground. The other will measure 30ohms or so to ground (this is the heater). If either one measures open to ground, the TTS is bad (or hot - you must do this test with the coolant below about 90F).

I'd start chasing the TTS wiring vs the diagram. You could have a bad connection somewhere in the harness (or a bad ground connection on the engine intake runner ground).

[DMCMW Dave]

You need to test if the CSV is working. Put a voltmeter on the two CSV pins and when the car is cranking you should get 12 volts if your engine temp is below 95 deg.

If it starts with the plug swap, it works.

[DMC5180]

Don't know which dealership it was, kirk got the pnight if we are getting the 12v needed at the Carts from a guy in the ATL area who bought the inventory. no LFF or anything super rare, just the usual gaskets, seals and different parts that are still mostly available.

Interesting, My car was sold through Bill Spreen Toyota, Atlanta GA. They are No longer in business. Makes me wonder If the inventory came from them. Guess we will never know.

Thanks anyway.

[Bikercmbc]

I'd start chasing the TTS wiring vs the diagram. You could have a bad connection somewhere in the harness (or a bad ground connection on the engine intake runner ground).[/QUOTE]

which one is the intake runner ground? is that the one right side when looking at the engine near the back corner, with the quick disconnect?

[DMC5180]

I'd start chasing the TTS wiring vs the diagram. You could have a bad connection somewhere in the harness (or a bad ground connection on the engine intake runner ground).

which one is the intake runner ground? is that the one right side when looking at the engine near the back corner, with the quick disconnect?[/QUOTE]

Top left next to the ISM. Not sure what the Quick disconnect ground goes to.

[Bikercmbc]

ok, ill look around and check the grounds and test the TTS tonight. thanks everyone