How To: Use a Motive Power Brake Bleeder for the clutch system

[82DMC12]

I have a Motive power bleeder for my brakes which I really can't recommend it enough. I've used the "two-man" brake bleed method as well as one-man Mityvac method but I like the Motive power bleeder the most of all. Partly because I no longer have to bother my wife to help!

The Motive model that works with our brake master cylinder is the 0100 European kit. I bought mine on Amazon.

I also wanted to use it on the clutch system but Motive does not have an adapter for the clutch reservoir that works. I tried the 1110 British adapter but it's not the right size.

I read some old topics on DMCTalk where it's said that the cap from a pint of brake fluid works, but all I have is Castrol DOT 4 and that cap didn't work. But what DID work is the cap from a quart of Toro lawn mower oil. I drilled a 1/2" hole in it, then threaded in a teflon-taped hose barb (3/8" NPT to 5/16" barb) that goes into 5/16" ID clear tubing. I added a rubber washer inside the cap. It threads onto the reservoir perfectly and holds 15 PSI. This way I was able to flush and bleed my clutch solo (along with the DeLorean Industries remote clutch bleeder). You can bleed the clutch with the remote from under the car but I prefer to do it above so I have unlimited wrench access. I use a quart glass mason jar with a hole drilled into the lid so I can slide my clear bleeder tubing into the jar. That way it doesn't splash and I don't have to worry about the hose flying out.

Here's the process:

1. Assemble the reservoir adapter as described and, using another hose barb, connect it to the Motive bleeder. Use blue teflon tape as needed.
2. Make sure the clutch reservoir is topped up. I use Castrol GT-LMA DOT 4 when available but it looks like it's been superseded by a new Castrol product that is backwards compatible with the old LMA product. I found the best price for the fluid here - I would buy a quart if you want to flush out the clutch and do a great job bleeding it. https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/brake-fluid/2521A/
3. Screw the adapter to the top of the reservoir
4. Get the clutch slave bleeder ready by connecting clear tubing the bleed nipple. Have a 6-point box wrench ready to open and close the nipple. I think the original nipple is 8mm. My remote bleeder is 3/8". Put the other end of the clear tubing into a suitable container like the mason jar I described earlier.
5. Pump up the Motive tank to about 15 PSI. Wait a minute to make sure you don't have any air leaks.
6. At the slave cylinder, crack open the bleeder until fluid comes out of the hose and into the jar. If there is air in the hydraulics, it will probably come out first but there could be bubbles anywhere along the way as it flushes out. With a slow steady stream, I was able to bleed for about 5 seconds before my reservoir was half-depleted. Do not leave the bleeder open and walk back to the front of the car. Bleed for short intervals and close the bleeder when you need to check the reservoir again.
7. Keep checking the reservoir, and if you fall below 1/2 full, release the pressure from the Motive by slowly unscrewing the top of it where the handle is, then remove the adapter and top up the fluid in the reservoir. Be careful not to spill and clean up any spills immediately. It will damage paint and frame epoxy.
8. When you see clear clean fluid coming out and no more bubbles, you are done. Close the bleeder snugly with the box end of the wrench and disconnect your bleed hose. Release the pressure from the Motive tank before removing the adapter from the reservoir. Top up fluid again and screw the cap back on.

A couple other points of inspection while flushing the clutch -

1. Check the hose between the reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. If it's sweating or looks stressed, replace it.
2. Peel back the boot on the clutch master from inside the car and check for leakage into the recess. Replace the master cylinder if you find fluid there.
3. Peel back the boot around the fork pin where it goes into the clutch slave. Mine had a small leak inside the boot which told me I need to replace the slave cylinder.
4. If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line from the reservoir to the fitting above the transmission, that should be a required upgrade
5. There are plastic washers between each cylinder and the pipe fitting that screws into it. Have extras on hand before removing those fittings in case they cannot be re-used.

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Inside of my home-made reservoir adapter

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Adapter connected to the reservoir

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Motive pressure bleeder tank, works much like a garden sprayer

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DeLorean Industries remote clutch bleeder positioned into the engine compartment so I can bleed from above (can also do this from below). The Remote bleeder has a bracket and clip that holds it in place near the starter from under the car.

[SupercoolBill]

Nice write up.
When built my Suzuki Samurai rig I swapped out the OEM brake bleeders for brake bleeders that had a built in spring loaded plunger. I think they were called EZ Bleed or maybe Speed Bleed. Basically what you did was put a hose on the fitting into a clean catch container, top off the reservoir, then pump the brake pedal. The spring pressure made it so you had to push a fair amount of pressure to overcome the check valve. The check valve kept you from sucking in air.
When you were done you just snugged down the fitting like you would a normal bleeder.
Simple but ingenious design.
Not sure if they still sell them or not. The great thing is they worked well even if you were out in the middle of the woods doing a brake repair.

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

[Project Vixen]

Did you put fluid into the bleeder's tank? I can't see it in the picture nor any fluid in the bleeder line. It will work using just air from the tank, but it's designed to push fluid into the reservoir so you don't have to keep checking it.

Thanks for the info on the cap(s) and the how-to!

[82DMC12]

Did you put fluid into the bleeder's tank? I can't see it in the picture nor any fluid in the bleeder line. It will work using just air from the tank, but it's designed to push fluid into the reservoir so you don't have to keep checking it.

Thanks for the info on the cap(s) and the how-to!

I did not put any fluid into the tank - I know it suggests you do that in the instructions but I only used it as an air tank so I wouldn't have to clean it out when I'm done! I had brake fluid ruin a MityVac in short order so I was fine with checking reservoir level periodically instead.

[Project Vixen]

I did not put any fluid into the tank - I know it suggests you do that in the instructions but I only used it as an air tank so I wouldn't have to clean it out when I'm done! I had brake fluid ruin a MityVac in short order so I was fine with checking reservoir level periodically instead.

Ah, okay, got it. You can clean it up easily with hot soapy water if needed. Brake fluid (3/4/5.1) is water-soluble and cleans up easily from the bleeder. Just dry it all out well when you're done and all is good.

Edit: Motive recommends the following: "Use denatured alcohol to clean your Power Bleeder. Do not clean your Power Bleeder with brake parts cleaners or other solvents not intended for use with plastic components. Pump the denatured alcohol through the tank and hose assembly and let air-dry. If Denatured Alcohol is not available a weak solution of “Simple Green” can be used. Rinse Well. Ensure unit is completely dry before reuse. Lubrication of the Power Bleeder pump mechanism should not be necessary. Should lubrication be required, apply a small amount of brake fluid compatible grease to the Power Bleeder pump shaft. Never lubricate with petroleum-based oils." I'll use some Simple Green & hot water next time.

[82DMC12]

Ah, okay, got it. You can clean it up easily with hot soapy water if needed. Brake fluid (3/4/5.1) is water-soluble and cleans up easily from the bleeder. Just dry it all out well when you're done and all is good.

Edit: Motive recommends the following: "Use denatured alcohol to clean your Power Bleeder. Do not clean your Power Bleeder with brake parts cleaners or other solvents not intended for use with plastic components. Pump the denatured alcohol through the tank and hose assembly and let air-dry. If Denatured Alcohol is not available a weak solution of “Simple Green” can be used. Rinse Well. Ensure unit is completely dry before reuse. Lubrication of the Power Bleeder pump mechanism should not be necessary. Should lubrication be required, apply a small amount of brake fluid compatible grease to the Power Bleeder pump shaft. Never lubricate with petroleum-based oils." I'll use some Simple Green & hot water next time.

Nice. I do want to get another MityVac, or maybe the Harbor Freight cheapo version because I like using it to pull a vacuum or simply to suck out a brake or clutch reservoir. Never had much luck with it as an actual brake bleeder (thus why I bought the Motive) but it is useful. I failed to clean it out and ruined it in only a few weeks.

[Project Vixen]

Nice. I do want to get another MityVac, or maybe the Harbor Freight cheapo version because I like using it to pull a vacuum or simply to suck out a brake or clutch reservoir. Never had much luck with it as an actual brake bleeder (thus why I bought the Motive) but it is useful. I failed to clean it out and ruined it in only a few weeks.

With the vacuum pumps... most aren't made for brake fluid, so it's important you use a good 'catch can' to stop any fluid from getting in. I replaced the little jar with a gatorade bottle so it didn't fill as fast. I have used vacuum bleeders somewhat successfully in the past, and ez-bleeder screws, but now I love the pressure bleeder. One of those 'makes life easier' tools that is well worth the money.

Oh -- they do make rebuild kits for those pumps btw in case you want to fix it.

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[Trstno1]

So, I too have a Motive power bleeder.

I was having an issue that if I let my car sit outside in freezing temps for longer than 2 hrs, I was unable to get the car to go into reverse. Since I have a new master, slave, and clutch/pressure plate, and throw out bearing I thought that maybe my clutch system just needed to be bled of air. I put some dot 4 fluid in the Motive bleeder, made a custom cap for the fill port and hooked it up. I pumped it up, waited for leaks, and went back and ran about 4 oz. of fluid through. I have an old Hervy clutch bleeder hooked up to the slave, so that was pretty easy....

After I was done, I parked the car outside for 4 hrs at 15 degrees F and came back to test it. The car went into reverse.... Yayy! Unfortunately, now I go to pull into the garage and the car won't shift out of first gear while I have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor. What gives?? I wiggle gear shifter... nothing. I start slowly letting up on the clutch pedal with my foot on the brake, about 1-2 inches up the car stalls. Do I still have air in the system?? seems like clutch is not fully disengaging.

What else should I be testing here? thoughts?

[WHO1DMC]

So, I too have a Motive power bleeder.

I was having an issue that if I let my car sit outside in freezing temps for longer than 2 hrs, I was unable to get the car to go into reverse. Since I have a new master, slave, and clutch/pressure plate, and throw out bearing I thought that maybe my clutch system just needed to be bled of air. I put some dot 4 fluid in the Motive bleeder, made a custom cap for the fill port and hooked it up. I pumped it up, waited for leaks, and went back and ran about 4 oz. of fluid through. I have an old Hervy clutch bleeder hooked up to the slave, so that was pretty easy....

After I was done, I parked the car outside for 4 hrs at 15 degrees F and came back to test it. The car went into reverse.... Yayy! Unfortunately, now I go to pull into the garage and the car won't shift out of first gear while I have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor. What gives?? I wiggle gear shifter... nothing. I start slowly letting up on the clutch pedal with my foot on the brake, about 1-2 inches up the car stalls. Do I still have air in the system?? seems like clutch is not fully disengaging.

What else should I be testing here? thoughts?

First I think this will need it's own thread.
The way you describe things your clutch hydraulics are fine. Because with the car running and clutch in and you couldn't get in gear than I suspect the clutch. Something else is causing it not to want to come out. I would start checking the linkage. Primarily the pivot bolt and so on. If everything is fine than it may be internal.
With engine not running you should be able to shift though the gears.
If you lost the clutch on the road you would need to start the engine in first gear and be able to shift the gears it just take timing. Yes I've done this with my D. That's why I suspect something else is wrong.



Dave B.