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Thread: Car let me down for the first time in years

  1. #51
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    The simple way to look for 12V power anywhere on a car.

    12 volt test lamp with probe and ground clamp. Clamp to a known ground or a ground extension wire connected to the car's ground circuit.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=186543_0_0_
    +1

    This is usually the best tool since a meter will read 12V when there isn't enough amperage available to run a gnat's flashlight. An probe light will show you the circuit will at least handle a small load...

    When in doubt, disconnect the component and apply 12V (fused) straight off of the battery (+) AND (-) -- This eliminates the entire car and guesswork.
    (In this case, carefully connect jumper wires to the pump, THEN connect them to the battery to keep any sparks away from the pump).

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    When in doubt, disconnect the component and apply 12V (fused) straight off of the battery (+) AND (-) -- This eliminates the entire car and guesswork.
    (In this case, carefully connect jumper wires to the pump, THEN connect them to the battery to keep any sparks away from the pump).
    The portable battery packs work great for that kind of stuff. They have and on/off switch and you don't need a bunch of cable to hook up to the battery. Hook it up, quick on...off, simple.

  3. #53
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    OK a little update. I came to the conclusion that my fuel pump is toast.

    So after ordering the new fuel sender module from DMC, waiting for it, receiving it and finally having the time to install it I have a question.

    009.jpg
    011.jpg

    Above is the fuel pump that is(was) in the car. I believe that the PO installed one of Johns pumps: http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean...pdate-kit..jpg

    My question is that the "tuna can" pick-up is attached to the bottom my fuel tank. It has a bolt coming up from what looks like underneath, with a washer and a nut securing it. There is no way that it would be bolted through the tank is it??

    I'm scared to remove it....

    I apologize for the crappy cell phone pictures.
    Last edited by jeff; 08-31-2013 at 01:05 AM.

  4. #54
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    It just occurred to me......is that a factory bolt in the middle of the tank?

  5. #55
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Yes, that bolt is moulded into the plastic tank and held the original baffle arm in place.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  6. #56
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    Ahhh, thanks Dave.

    It's hard to figure out and/or remember what is original when changing an after market part with a different after market part

  7. #57
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    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Well...........new pump installed...........no start

    I wanted to check the fuel line (to filter/engine) to make sure the new pump was actually pumping. When I pulled the line off, I was surprised by the amount of pressure. I expected the gas to "flow" out of the hard line, but it shot like a fire hydrant. Is that normal?

    -The car starts with ether, then quits.
    -Does not start with the WUR plug into the CSV
    -RPM relay is fine (new solid state last year) I tried the RPM bypass, the new pump hummed constantly like it should, but the car still did not fire.

    The tank is spotless, the pump is new, and the car fires with ether. What am I missing?? The only thing left is the fuel line from tank to engine.

    I did NOT change the fuel filter yet, I was anxious to try starting it. I can't see it being plugged solid on a what was a daily driver and my jack stands and/or ramps are both at work.

    Can (should) I pull a line off at the engine to see if its getting fuel?

  8. #58
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    I wanted to check the fuel line (to filter/engine) to make sure the new pump was actually pumping. When I pulled the line off, I was surprised by the amount of pressure. I expected the gas to "flow" out of the hard line, but it shot like a fire hydrant. Is that normal?
    Yes. Normal.

    The primary pressure is held at >>45PSI for quite some time after shutdown. Toward this goal the fuel pump check valve prevents backflow and the accumulator holds a fair amount of fuel so you probably witnessed its full shot plus whatever volume could have been due to just the lines relaxing when the pressure went to zero as you opened it up.

    One has to be careful when diagnosing or disassembling the K-Jet plumbing anywhere on the high side for just this reason.

    Sounds like you found out the messy way that your primary fuel pressure is OK.....The metering plate push test is the easier way to get a rough go/no-go feel for the primary fuel pressure with engine off and no gauges.

    Next time.
    Last edited by Rich; 10-20-2013 at 11:40 PM.

  9. #59
    Senior Member rdarlington's Avatar
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    Is there any chance your ignition distributor isn't clamped down properly and shifted position? Cap is still clipped to it, pickup is still good, etc?

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdarlington View Post
    Is there any chance your ignition distributor isn't clamped down properly and shifted position? Cap is still clipped to it, pickup is still good, etc?
    I'll check, thanks
    Last edited by jeff; 10-21-2013 at 01:05 AM.

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