How To: Rebuild Steering Rack

[Ron]

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/S...ing%20Rack.pdf

EDIT: Link above broke. See:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FRZ...ew?usp=sharing

Thanks Mark D!

[ALEXAKOS]

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/S...ing%20Rack.pdf

All I wish to add to this tutorial is that the PVC used to guide the inner bar, needs some shafts to allow the fluid to move in and out of the rack.
Just like the original part did. The way this fella sealed the gateway between the two ends, it will create hydrolic pressure between the two ends making the steering rack stiffer.

Images supplied soon

[Spittybug]

Good point, maybe...

When I did mine I also have it as a tight fit, minimizing the fluid transfer. I was thinking that it might be a problem for the passenger side tie rod joint inside the boot, but I can't see how that joint would ever be "bathed" in fluid anyway. I ended up inserting a pin through the side wall of the rack tube into the bushing, so I'm sure I won't have to worry about any hydraulic pressure popping my bushing out. Thinking about it though, there really isn't a lot of force to push the fluid around. The rack moves relatively slowly and there isn't any kind of tube pressurization since the other end is open.

[ALEXAKOS]

That is a strong argument Owen.
I just noticed the original part that was grabbing the rod only at 50% of its total surface leaving 4 blanks in between. First thought was liquids passage, second was also less friction and air passage. Since the boots are tightly sealed on both ends, it leaves little "communication" between the two compartments left and right from that PVC tube replacement.

I am actually reproducing those with Polyurethane replacements of that seal as well as the filler inner cap as that was also melted... for some reason.

Will have photos in 2 days.

[ALEXAKOS]

Right, here are the originals next to the copies I made with poly.

Right the melted filler cap knob left my replacement
Goes like this:



Then the centering cylinder that was ripped.
Left the original, right my poly repro

notice how large the gaps are on the original. I believe the main reason is minimal friction cause it was made of hard rubber


fitting



I rounded up the sharp corners

[Helirich]

Is the original post link gone? Doesn't seem to work for me. I think I need to make a poli-bushing for the pax side. Mine has nothing there. What holds the bushing in? My rack is nice and tight. Everything seems good but that one end. Im probably going to make the bushing tomorrow. If anybody has some good imput on this, please comment.

[Mark D]

PJ Grady sells replacement steering rack bushings. I bought a set like 10 years ago and they are still holding up well. I don't think they have them listed on the website, you just have to call and ask.



He also reproduces the cup shaped bushings for the inner tie rods.

[Mark D]

I have that PDF as well that was linked above but apparently no longer exists. I put it up on my google drive here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FRZ...ew?usp=sharing

[Helirich]

So I guess the bushing is just held by press fit? One guy mentioned he made a pin to hold it. Not quite sure how that would work. (The pin would have to be less than an 1/8"?)

Edit, just read your write up, Mark. Great job! Thanks.

One more edit, Mark, do you think it would be possible to replace that bushing in the car?

[Helirich]

To answer my own question, yes, you can replace the bushing in the car. I put a threaded hole in the side of my bushing and used a very short screw to lock it in place. Then I put the boot rubber/clamp over the screw head to lock it in place.

One thing I noticed, the first bushing I made was tight. It made the steering wheel turn kind of hard. After honing it out, it moved easy. I wonder if you could size it so it would dampen your steering. I might experiment with that later, I don't have time right now.