Before you replace the idle speed motor, try cleaning it. Plug one end and spray some cleaner in the motor. Let it sit and repeat. In addition to cleaner I also used PB Blaster which is a penetrating oil. Since I had an extra pigtail to connect to the motor I used it to bang the idle motor to each extreme a couple times (center pin +12Vdc and the two outer pins are ground). My theory, and it is only a theory, is that the motor normally only needs to operate in a narrow range of operation. Thus it can get gummed up (corroded?) outside that range. Forcing it to the full extremes helps break up the gunk outside of normal range. Remember, I'm subject to being wrong without notice
Any of the Bosch 500 series motors is compatible with our setup. A Volvo 260 is one source. You can read more at:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?74...nectors-Damage
Even if you do salvage a new motor, you should clean it before using since it may be worse than the one you are replacing.
Also, using something to test for vacuum leaks (propane, carb cleaner , etc), verify that you don't have any air leaks. In the above mentioned topic you'll read that the cleaner I used did not cause the engine to increases speed so make sure that your test material does.
Also, my recomendation is to not adjust anything (throttle, microswitch, curb idle, etc) unless:
- someone has already messed with it
- all other issues are resolved
Verify = yes. Adjust = not yet. The reason is that there is very few reasons that these items should go out of adjustment via normal usage. There is likely something else causing the problem if the car is still set to factory.