You might be referring to my blog. Everything that I've done with my LED conversion has been working like a charm. No issues.
While you're in there, swap everything out with LEDs like you're talking about. Now's the time to do it and its very easy to do. And as you know, stay incandescent with the battery bulb.
I'm looking at your blog to see what LEDs to use. I am reading where you say "Below are the model numbers, colors, and quantity required" It looks like you had 1 amber, 5 warm white, 5 red, 3 green, 1 blue, and of course the 1 161 incandescent bulb. That is all right? and all the model # are like wled-a-90, wled-g-90, and so on?
I'm looking at your blog to see what LEDs to use. I am reading where you say "Below are the model numbers, colors, and quantity required" It looks like you had 1 amber, 5 warm white, 5 red, 3 green, 1 blue, and of course the 1 161 incandescent bulb. That is all right? and all the model # are like wled-a-90, wled-g-90, and so on?
I have seen bad batteries that mess up the charging circuit. You cannot properly troubleshoot the charging system with a battery of unknown quality. If you are changing the bulbs in the dash to LED's you MUST NOT change the one for the charging circuit to LED. It HAS to be an incandescent bulb for the alternator to work properly. Rare for them to burn out but always possible. More likely a problem in the alternator or the wiring.
David Teitelbaum
I have seen bad batteries that mess up the charging circuit. You cannot properly troubleshoot the charging system with a battery of unknown quality. If you are changing the bulbs in the dash to LED's you MUST NOT change the one for the charging circuit to LED. It HAS to be an incandescent bulb for the alternator to work properly. Rare for them to burn out but always possible. More likely a problem in the alternator or the wiring.
David Teitelbaum
Well I ordered LEDs but I went ahead and put a new 161 incandescent bulb in for the charging circuit and put it all back together. I just left the bolts out so I can take it out easier when the LEDs come. Anyway, I think it worked. The battery light came on! and the car started right up. Won't know for sure until I run the car a little while but I am hopeful. I was pretty sure that the battery was good.
...Anyway, I think it worked. The battery light came on! and the car started right up. Won't know for sure until I run the car a little while but I am hopeful. I was pretty sure that the battery was good.
Well I may have fixed that or I may not have but at least the light comes on now. If I did fix it than I have another problem. the car is still idling very shaky and when i first start it up i can press on the gas and it does nothing. After about 30 seconds or so I can rev the engine but at first it does nothing. Also it still isn't getting enough power when in reverse or drive. I put it in reverse and push the gas and it does almost nothing. If I put my foot out the door and push it gets it moving but still very slow and not with much power. In drive it get much more power than in reverse but still far less than it should be. Could this be related to my alternator / battery problem? or something else? I will search for an answer but in the meantime let me know what you think.
Well I may have fixed that or I may not have but at least the light comes on now. If I did fix it than I have another problem. the car is still idling very shaky and when i first start it up i can press on the gas and it does nothing. After about 30 seconds or so I can rev the engine but at first it does nothing. Also it still isn't getting enough power when in reverse or drive. I put it in reverse and push the gas and it does almost nothing. If I put my foot out the door and push it gets it moving but still very slow and not with much power. In drive it get much more power than in reverse but still far less than it should be. Could this be related to my alternator / battery problem? or something else? I will search for an answer but in the meantime let me know what you think.
I would bet it is a different issue.
In your original explanation of the car shutting off/dying to describe the battery, alternator, light bulb problem, I would determine if that has improved. You said you can start the car up and it runs. Does it still shut off like it did earlier before you changed the battery warning light bulb? If it does not, I would say we move on to problem number two
So, in terms of what you mentioned, and it sounds like you have an auto trans (?), someone else on here just the other day was mentioning this low/no power in drive or reverse. We speculated it could be throttle linkage adjustment related, but a better thing to determine first is what the auto trans fluid levels and condition are. It is relatively easy to check level and/or change the fluid entirely. I'm about to do the same. ATF too low or too high is no good. If your car has sat for some length of time, I wouldn't be surprised if the fluid needs attention.
In your original explanation of the car shutting off/dying to describe the battery, alternator, light bulb problem, I would determine if that has improved. You said you can start the car up and it runs. Does it still shut off like it did earlier before you changed the battery warning light bulb? If it does not, I would say we move on to problem number two
So, in terms of what you mentioned, and it sounds like you have an auto trans (?), someone else on here just the other day was mentioning this low/no power in drive or reverse. We speculated it could be throttle linkage adjustment related, but a better thing to determine first is what the auto trans fluid levels and condition are. It is relatively easy to check level and/or change the fluid entirely. I'm about to do the same. ATF too low or too high is no good. If your car has sat for some length of time, I wouldn't be surprised if the fluid needs attention.
Yes I agree I think it is an unrelated problem. the car does not shut off anymore and the battery seems to be getting the proper voltage now. I will check the trans fluid. can you give me the link to the other post where they were talking about this?
In your original explanation of the car shutting off/dying to describe the battery, alternator, light bulb problem, I would determine if that has improved. You said you can start the car up and it runs. Does it still shut off like it did earlier before you changed the battery warning light bulb? If it does not, I would say we move on to problem number two
So, in terms of what you mentioned, and it sounds like you have an auto trans (?), someone else on here just the other day was mentioning this low/no power in drive or reverse. We speculated it could be throttle linkage adjustment related, but a better thing to determine first is what the auto trans fluid levels and condition are. It is relatively easy to check level and/or change the fluid entirely. I'm about to do the same. ATF too low or too high is no good. If your car has sat for some length of time, I wouldn't be surprised if the fluid needs attention.
Good call the trans fluid was very very low. Thanks
Good call the trans fluid was very very low. Thanks
Not to make any assumptions...
ATF gets checked typically with the car on a level surface, while running. Warm the engine up enough for coolant fans to cycle on once or twice. Keep engine running, foot on brake/parking brake engaged, and go through gears once or twice. P to R to N to D, 2, 1, and back to P. Then repeat. Then, with engine still running, check dipstick for level. You'll notice it says cold, warm, hot on the end of the dipstick as it is relative to the engine temperature. If low, add small amounts until correct or drain completely and refill according to manual.
Just wanted to mention this for good measure .... eeek, haha, I wasn't even trying to be punny there. Yikes, lol.