My VIN: 03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress
Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car
How to Repair Power Mirror Switch
I put up a request for this, nothing yet. But I have a proceedure that may offer limited success.
I have a spare switch that only intermittently worked on a few functions, but mostly nothing. The switch seemed physically ok, nothing broken (the paddle joystick needed to be glued on) but it was gummed up electrically. This unit sat in my car before I saved it and was rained on for years with no drivers side glass installed.
All I did was soak it for 5 minutes in Tarnex. I drained it and then soaked as much WD40 into it as I could to help displace the remaining Tarnex. Finally I cleaned it thouroughly with paper towels to get as much WD40 off the surface as possible. Now every function works.
Everyone may not be so lucky, so if someone has ever had the switch apart - chime in.
My VIN: 03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress
Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car
Yeah, but is really important to get a really good rinse (I used WD40) after your done as it can be harsh on the metal if it stays on. Another option, probably better, is to use this:
My VIN: 03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress
Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car
Since I have a spare that would not even move, with this one I decided to open it up...
I have made up names for the parts to facilitate further discussion. Its relatively easy to take apart - there are 4 plastic pins that need to get drilled down on the back of the switch, you pull the paddle off the end of the shaft and it comes apart.
Everything inside is relatively easy to clean - its just that getting it back together is a little harder... Note that the steel balls go into the metal tubes and are pressed on by springs - the balls can shoot quite a distance if they pop loose, and they are hard to find. I had to crack open a BMW? window switch to get more when I lost one somewhere in the mud room. Seriously, do this in a space where you can find lost balls easier...
Also, the "bushing" seems to only possibly go under the rocker assembly - but parts scattered when I took it apart so its possible that's wrong.
OK, who has worked as a watchmaker before that can tell us how to reassemble the unit?
Seriously, that's kind of my plan - I may take it to the watch repair guy at the mall and ask him if he can put it back together now. I tried several clever approaches which all failed. I think the roller pins can be held in place over the springs in the back of the left/right switch by tying them down with dental floss, which could then be cut and extracted like stitches once everything was back together, but the rocker assembly would challenge even Ted Kazinsky's skills to reassemble. Maybe Hervey can use the same guy that rebuilds window switches - but this is a lot tougher.
I bring this up because that darned NOS switch on ebay the other day went for a LOT of money...
Between the combined efforts of myself and the other owner now up here (he's on here, SDMC, and will chime in at his leisure) we managed to assemble his mirror switch. It came apart while we were removing it from his door. It had clearly been disassembled and reassembled previously, and was poorly done. One mirror direction did not work, and the casing looks like they had tried to melt it to seal it.
We sourced ball bearings for the mirror direction from a bicycle shop. When they were all in a small bag, you couldn't tell the difference.
A small dab of "battery protector" gel from the local parts shop held the bearings in place while fitting the rocker assembly back into the back plate.
I was having issues with the springs and roller pins, but that was handled by the other owner. Just takes a steady hand and patience, neither of which I had that day.
As long as you have all the pieces, or can get suitable replacements, it's worth taking the time to attempt a rebuild. His mirror switch now controls both mirrors, in all directions.
I had the same issue never worked from when I bought it, Dave Howarth said its likely to be rusty connections due to water leaks on my drivers door. So I drilled a small hole in the side of the switch housing and another on the opposite side (very carefully with a pin vice). Then I put the straw of a WD40 can inside and gave it a liberal spray. I left it on its side for a few minutes to let the excess drain. Then with a rag on my knee I sat watching tv gently moving the joystick of the switch back, forth, left, right. I did this for about 2 hours GENTLY. Plugged the bugger in the next day and it worked. Now I have a spare!! Lucky perhaps but it worked.
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