Is there some trick to reach the distributor timing adjustment bolt?

[rdarlington]

Hi guys,

I checked my timing tonight and I'm idling between 750 and 775 RPM and am measuring pretty steady at 18 degree advance with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor.

I'm also completely lacking any low end torque but otherwise the engine is feels fine. Just no power till I'm over about 2k RPM. I keep thinking she'll stall from a stop on a hill when I'm coming off the clutch. I'm hoping that retarding the timing a bit will help this but I don't have any idea if it will or not.

The bolt holding the distributor down is visible but there is a fuel line running right over it that I can't really get out of the way. After a half an hour trying, I can't seem to get a 10mm socket over it (maybe I'm using the wrong size)? Is there some trick to this? I've used distributor wrenches in the past when the hold down clamp was recessed such that there was no straight shot down, but in this case the bolt is right there and I don't think I would have any luck with one of those either. I just don't think there's enough clearance between the distributor itself and the bolt to get a socket around it. Any advice?

-Bob

[Kenny_Z]

I thought it was 11mm but I'm not sure. Then again I'm pretty sure I replaced that nut during the rebuild. It is definitely a pain to get to but longer wrenches help. Eighteen degrees sounds like too much timing. I think Red is around 13 degrees and it seems to be her sweet spot. As you probably know every engine is different. Good luck with yours.

[rdarlington]

That explains it. It's definitely an 11mm bolt. :-) Thank you! I've got it loosened up and am about to make the adjustment.

[rdarlington]

So no significant change to the low end torque on this ride, but I did dial in the timing to 13 degrees. It was a little scary after I loosened the bolt and wiggled the distributor a little and then tried to start the car. It's very touchy and would not start till I got it back where I started. After the adjustment (obviously while running) I shut off the engine for a few minutes and then it started right back up. The real test will be in the morning when I start it before work.

Thanks again,
Bob

[rdarlington]

The real test will be in the morning when I start it before work.

She started right up. Thanks again.

-Bob - 1982 model, VIN 10904

[TTait]

13 is nominal, but it can go up to 20 (or more?) if you are running performance cams. Steger Cams get set to 20...

[Kenny_Z]

Glad to help. I hope you get the timing dialed in.

[Delorean Industries]

13 is nominal, but it can go up to 20 (or more?) if you are running performance cams. Steger Cams get set to 20...

Set to 17-18 if you want to be able to run anything but premium though. The engine will ping on 87 with the engine that far out.

[jerzybondov]

Setting my timing recently I realised the easiest way to get to the dizzy screw is to pop off the CPR. Just two allen bolts and then you can get an 11mm spanner in to the dizzy screw no probs, whilst the car is running.

Any experience with how many degrees you can advance the timing before pinging on 91 Octane? How much leeway is there?

[David T]

Setting my timing recently I realised the easiest way to get to the dizzy screw is to pop off the CPR. Just two allen bolts and then you can get an 11mm spanner in to the dizzy screw no probs, whilst the car is running.

Any experience with how many degrees you can advance the timing before pinging on 91 Octane? How much leeway is there?

What you are trying for used to be called "Power Tuning". You advance till you hear pinging and then back off a degree or 2. Not a good idea unless you are racing and trying for every little edge you can get. Depending on the tank of fuel (it varies) temperature, humidity, and air pressure you could set it and the next day or the next fill-up you could really be banging. Little to be gained but a LOT to lose. Stay with 13 degrees and you can use 87 octane. BTW, the Owner's Manual says to use 91 octane. I believe that is the R/M Octane #. Not sure how they do it in Europe.