After running about about 40 minutes, the engine will not hold an idle and dies. I cannot re-start the engine until it is cold.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
After running about about 40 minutes, the engine will not hold an idle and dies. I cannot re-start the engine until it is cold.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
You may be on to something there, Dave... I was using my tachometer in the engine compartment to monitor engine speed, and noticed the reading fluctuating wildly just before the engine died. The tach receives its signal from the coil's positive terminal. I will go and see if I have spark.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Find the plug on the left side of the engine that connects to the electrical distributor. It's similar to the CSV and WUR/CPR plug - instead of blue or brown, it'll be a yellow color. Then do the following:
Straight from John's site:
This may be the problem when the car won't start until it cools down from being hot or if your car just dies and won't start for no apparent reason. Let it cool down for about 45 minuets and starts up. Should measure about 550 ohms room temp on the wire coming out of the ign distributor. When is gets hot and the car dies, there will be no ohms reading.
He is referring to the pulse coil in the electrical distributor going bad.
From this page:
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thanks. I confirmed plenty of spark while cranking but no start. It had been more than 45 minutes since the engine died.
I found instructions for testing a pickup coil here. If I get the chance, I'll try this tomorrow.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Hendersonville, NC
Posts: 134
My VIN: 16867
If you know me you know I am not mechanically inclined-- BUT after32 years of ownership, I have learned a few things and even though I am now 80, my memory is pretty goo. SO, you have perfectly described the dreaded "impulse coil" problem .. . . At least as I experienced it.
Dick Ryan, the Rad Dad
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Yes, I'm running a carb. The engine is getting fuel. In fact, unless I turn the key off when the engine dies, the needle valve can't hold the pressure back for very long and the carburetor floods out.
It sounds like the pickup coil might be the culprit. RockAuto has one for $14 shipped. I might as well jump on it.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998