runs for 40 minutes, then dies and will not re-start

[Farrar]

Ah.... If the carb needle can't hold the fuel back... there is an issue... Did you put a in-line Fuel Pressure Regulator? If not, you should... Carbs don't need that high pressure...

Craig

The pump I'm using is rated for 5-9 PSI. However, I am considering adding a regulator set at 6 PSI. Or I could just put a resistor in the circuit to slow down the pump, ha ha...

[David T]

The pump I'm using is rated for 5-9 PSI. However, I am considering adding a regulator set at 6 PSI. Or I could just put a resistor in the circuit to slow down the pump, ha ha...

What he is saying is the needle valve for the float can't hold back much pressure over 5 psi. When you shut the motor of the valve leaks, overfilling the bowl and leaking into the motor. With all of that raw fuel sitting in the intake manifold it can't start. The fix is to get a lower pressure pump and/or a pressure regulator so the float valve doesn't see so much pressure. Typically you only need 3-5 psi on a carb. It is really only enough for transfer, you do not need a lot of pressure, only flow.

[Farrar]

Tonight, I tried to insall the new pickup coil. With the help of the Workshop Manual, this is as far as I got.



After that, I couldn't get anything to come apart anymore. The three screws on the inside were a pain -- one came out OK, the second fell down inside the housing where the torque converter is, and the third refused to budge so its head is all mottled now.

I also tried removing the vacuum advance mechanism from the outside (two screws) but it wouldn't un-latch from whatever it attaches to inside.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm not sure I'd try to do this with the distributor still on the engine. You have very easy access to get it out, take it off the engine (put the rotor back on and set it to the TDC mark so you can put it back together aligned).

You MUST take the vacuum chamber off, at least the screws that hold it in place, and you can't really get a screwdriver on them. They will be tight. The screws that hold the vacuum chamber on are so long that they block you from removing the plate.

The biggest risk, and it seems to be something you've already run into, is dropping small things into The Land Of Lost Parts. The C-clips and tiny roll pin are pretty easy to drop, and not something you'll find at Pep Boys.

[Farrar]

The distributor was mounted for the ease of taking pictures. The distributor itself has been removed from the car.

The C-clips were easy enough. That's what snap-ring pliers are for. The roll pin was not a problem, because the magnetic ring stopped it from falling.

I'm still stuck.

[David T]

The distributor was mounted for the ease of taking pictures. The distributor itself has been removed from the car.

The C-clips were easy enough. That's what snap-ring pliers are for. The roll pin was not a problem, because the magnetic ring stopped it from falling.

I'm still stuck.

You must take the whole thing apart. To do that you can't do it on the motor. There is no good, exploded view in the Parts Manual. Get your Workshop Manual out and go to M:01:01-:02-:03. You must check and if necessary set the Trigger/Stator gap on all of the points to 0.25 mm using a brass feeler gauge after putting it all back together and when you reinstall the distributor you should check the timing and the mechanical and vacuum advance. Are you a betting man? I bet this does NOT fix the problem. In fact, it may add to them. BTW, keep track of all of those little parts and spacers. You must reassemble it EXACTLY as it was assembled. Lightly lubricate all of the moving parts inside.

[Farrar]

November 2013: I let someone else swap out the pickup coil in my distributor.

December 2013: I re-installed the distributor. The engine would not start.

Today: I installed a new ignition module. The engine would not start.

[David T]

November 2013: I let someone else swap out the pickup coil in my distributor.

December 2013: I re-installed the distributor. The engine would not start.

Today: I installed a new ignition module. The engine would not start.

Most likely problem now is you did not reinstall the distributor correctly. Rotate the motor till the piston in cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. Now install the distributor with the rotor pointing at cylinder #1. Recheck your firing order and try again to start it.

[DMC5180]

Most likely problem now is you did not reinstall the distributor correctly. Rotate the motor till the piston in cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. Now install the distributor with the rotor pointing at cylinder #1. Recheck your firing order and try again to start it.

Do not see any confirmation there is spark either. Just statements of replaced this or that.

[Farrar]

Do not see any confirmation there is spark

That's strange, because:

I confirmed plenty of spark while cranking