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Thread: How To: Change the window motors (instructions from A1)

  1. #21
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Lebanon, Tennessee

    Posts:    275

    My VIN:    3294

    I'm getting ready to tackle this on Saturday and have a couple of questions regarding the instructions and materials needed.

    On the list of materials it says to get two 10 mm machine screws x 12 mm long and the nuts to go with them - used in step #29. I went to Lowe's tonight to pick up two 10 mm machine screws, and a 10mm screw( M10) is actually a big ass bolt about 3/8" in diameter. Is this right? I didn't see anything in the door that would fit in.

    Should the instructions say a #10 fine thread machine screw? Big difference in the two .

    In the instructions it mentioned some "black spacers". Are these supposed to be included with the A1 regulator or are they already in the door somewhere ?
    Last edited by bfloyd; 08-13-2015 at 10:56 PM.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  2. #22
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    How to change the window motors (instructions from A1)

    10mm head (M6 x 1.00) 12mm long. I don't recall any spacers but It's been 20 years since I did mine. There is an online video of the procedure .

    Search: Delorean Uprated Window Regulator Installation

    Video by Martin
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  3. #23
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Lebanon, Tennessee

    Posts:    275

    My VIN:    3294

    I started this installation on Saturday - it's is a serious pain. The "spacers" I mentioned above I found are actually included with the new A1 regulator and are located between the motor body and the regulator mounting plate. I used a "gel" super glue to keep my spacers in place while working it all back into the door.

    In step # 23, a 25mm length screw magically enters the scene that's noted no where before that step. I took a ton of photos, so hopefully I'll have something to contribute for others who follow afterwards to use as a reference.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  4. #24
    Senior Member DMCFL Brandon's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Clermont, FL

    Posts:    1,160

    My VIN:    1098

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Not looking forward to this job on my car. Not at all.
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5 V6


  5. #25
    KatyMan durech's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2012

    Location:  Katy, TX

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    My VIN:    2222

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCH) (DCUK)

    Yes, pictures please!!!! I wish someone would do a detailed video. While Martin's video is helpful, it is after the fact. One showing the whole process (removal and replacement) would be FANTASTIC and very helpful.

  6. #26
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Lebanon, Tennessee

    Posts:    275

    My VIN:    3294

    After getting it all put back together, getting locked out of my car due to a sticky lock rod, and taking the door panels and doing it again, I think I've finally finished my version of replacing the Delorean window regulator with the new and improved A1 replacement.

    First of all for "newbies" like me... in my course of finding the regulator, I checked the websites of several Delorean parts vendors, and it seems they ALL sell the exact same thing. One in particular was about $80-$90 cheaper than the others, so I went with that vendor.

    The A1 regulator is NOT a direct drop in replacement, but it's darn near close. The butterfly tab that bolts to the window glass rail lines up perfect. The regulator tube mount tab lines up with the REAR bolt hole of the door pull handle, as opposed to the front bolt hole of the original. The motor mounting bracket is nowhere near close to the original, but with the supplied offset brackets, it can be made to work.

    In the "Tools and Materials Needed" list:

    Make note that the "10 mm x 12 mm long, fine thread machine screw" is actually an M6 fine thread machine screw. An M6 hex head actually measures 10mm, so you would use a 10mm socket to drive it.

    In the list in mentions "super glue". I used a GEL Super Glue" to fix the black spacers to the regulator mounting plate.

    The instructions say do not use the supplied electrical harness, in my experience this week.... use it, and crimp two spade terminals on to the stripped ends to connect it all back to the cars wiring harness.

    Photos...
    Use duct tape or something similar to hold the glass in place while working on the regulator. Make sure to have the window lowered about 2 inches or more to access the two bolts that fix the butterfly tab to the glass rail.


    The motor of the original regulator is held in with a mounting bracket affixed to the door with 3 - M6 phillips head screws.


    Bad photo here, but the butterfly tab that holds the existing regulator tube to the glass rail is accessed through this upper hole underneath the black support bracket. Make sure to lower the glass about 2 inches to be able to access the nuts to remove them. (Step #10)


    The mounting tab of the existing original regulator tube is bolted to the back of the door pull handle assembly bracket. (Step #7)


    Once those bolts are removed, the whole thing can be fished out of the door.


    On the existing motor, make sure to note the polarity of the wiring harness. These two black connectors slide right out.


    Here is the original regulator removed from the door. Like most others, the part that broke was the plastic tube that connects the regulator track to the motor. I've seem online where folks have repaired this with 3/8" PEX piping. I might try that on this for a future replacement if necessary.


    Here is the back side of the new A1 regulator. Before attempting installation, you'll need to remove the angled mounting brackets, and remove the three bolts that fix the regulator to the motor assembly and separate the motor from the regulator mounting plate.


    Here are the three "black spacers" as mentioned in step #19 of the written instructions. They are located between the motor assembly and the regulator mounting plate.


    This is the new A1 motor assembly with the regulator plate removed. Note the three threaded bolt holes for the regulator mounting plate and the 1/4" square drive in the center


    Flip the regulator mounting plate assembly over and glue the black plastic spacers on to the mounting plate. I used a GEL super glue so it wouldn't run all over the place as I tried to put the spacers back in place. (Step #15 in the written instructions)


    To install the whole assembly, the motor has to go in first, then the regulator tube and drive assembly. Once both pieces are inside the door cavity, you have to mate the two pieces back together. Nothing is bolted in place yet, as you'll need to be able to rotate both the regulator and motor separately to get them lined up. I used a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the alignment of the 1/4" drive hole to match up with the angle of the motor shaft.

    I used the supplied angled mounting brackets to secure the motor in place. Not too difficult, but it would be nice if a vendor came up with a permanent solution as opposed to this hack job of motor mounting. It's secure, tight, and won't move, but a better solution would be nice.


    The supplied wiring harness has a molded plug on one end that plugs directly into the new motor, and the opposite end is two stripped wires. I crimped two spade terminals on to the bare wire leads and plugged them into the existing wiring harness of the door. Step #26 in the written instructions lead me to believe that the connectors on the cars wiring harness will fit into the socket on the new motor. I tried several times and couldn't make it work. These crimped terminals worked perfectly. Make sure to test the polarity by using the window switches. I hooked mine up backwards the first time. I wrapped my connections with electrical tape after this photo was taken.


    Always knew my car was an August '81 build date, now I know the specific build date....8-24-1981. Somebody will be celebrating their 34th birthday this week!
    Last edited by bfloyd; 08-20-2015 at 12:01 PM.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  7. #27
    KatyMan durech's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2012

    Location:  Katy, TX

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    My VIN:    2222

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCH) (DCUK)

    Great pictures. Thanks!!!

  8. #28
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Crystal Lake IL

    Posts:    5,021

    My VIN:    05429

    That really looks like the hard way to do this job. Other than moving the two brackets we don't take anything apart.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    329

    There is a much easier way to install them.

    do not use the hole they go into.. use the hole in the middle of the door bottom.. just take the h shaped bracket off. it is only held on by four screws.. the window regulator fits thru that opening no problem..

  10. #30
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    That really looks like the hard way to do this job. Other than moving the two brackets we don't take anything apart.
    My thoughts exactly. I didn't disassemble mine when I did them way back in the day.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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