Replacing window lift motor tube assy L&R.What to order."While you are theres"

[JIMJAM]

I need to order all the parts I need to replace and get both L & R windows working again. I have someone to help me out of state but I would like to go ahead and get the parts in hand so when we both have the time I can be ready.
So if any one else has tackled this job I would appreciate what you feel I need. Both L&R tube and assy of course but any other "while you are theres" and things that might be a good idea to replace or known to break during the process.

I understand not all can be forseen but I want to keep to a minumum having to next day air those unforseen parts you always seem to need.
Thanks in advance.Jim

[ccurzio]

I'm not clear on what's needed here... when you say "tube assembly", what's that referring to?

With the help of Ron and a few other guys here on the forum I undertook the window motor replacement project a while back and I used this kit: http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_delorean.htm

Maybe that helps?

[JIMJAM]

Drivers side window died. Pass side is off track and hangs up about 1/4 of a inch from the top then the wire in the tube starts coming out. So basically both r and left windows need to be working.

Ron is the one who is going to do it. I have not heard from him in a few days and I am itching to get this done before it gets cold. If I can get the parts ahead of time I am hoping to make a dash up the mountain and get this over with.

BTW-Whats the difference betreen the A1 assembly and DMC besides being a hell of a lot less expensive?

[ccurzio]

Ron's the man. He's the one who stayed late and helped me get my windows going, and I am so much in debt to that man for his help in several instances it's not even funny.

BTW-Whats the difference betreen the A1 assembly and DMC besides being a hell of a lot less expensive?

I have absolutely no idea what DMC's package consists of. I can just say that I'm running on the A1 package and it's been fine.

[Dangermouse]

Afaik DMC resells the A1 units.

If you still have plastic door handles it may be a good time to change them ?

[JIMJAM]

Yeah he crawled under my car here in SC in 100 degree heat and replaced my a/c hoses,recharged the system and also tuned the engine.
My car is solid mechanically but is a electrical horror story. I made a weak attempt to fix my pass window thats off track. It became painfully obvious quickly that I was over my head. Physically and mentally I just cannot do it. After dropping a few nuts and bolts,cutting myself and working in those cramp ,impossible Irish torture stainless steel doors o death I gave up.
Free advice-Do not shut the doors with a window partially open.

Yeah Dandermouse- I noticed the rubber outer seals are original.The felt has rotted away. Other than me opening up the pass side it appears they have never been opened before. Still got the messy glue gun looking crap holding the clear plastic. Do not see any rust when I peaked into the drivers side. Other than the interior trim panel I have not taken anything else off seeing I will be driving the car on a 4 hr road trip to get this done. Luckily the window died about 1 inch down so I got some clear shipping tape for if it rains.

[sdg3205]

Remember you can ask for a discount on the A1 units.

I wrote a thread about a year ago about it.

I think you save $75 or something

[Rich]

.... but any other "while you are theres" and things that might be a good idea to replace or known to break during the process

The Window Run Channel is easy to renew while you have the trim pieces out. It's the inverted U-shape channel that the drop glass snugs up into. The originals eventually can crack or fold over, especially if poorly-guided drop glass has mashed them. If they are OK then leave them. P/N 101726

Interior Drop Glass Seal if that inner felt strip has gone south as it often will if the glass has come off the track. That felt strip isn't meant to guide the glass and it can't, which is what rearranges it eventually. Otherwise they seem to stay together OK. P/N 106063

Outer Wipe Seals L/R - the rubber ones where the stainless meets the drop glass - yours are cracked/torn? - then this is a good time to renew. P/N 102129/106128

Also buy some new fir tree fasteners for the upper door trim and lower door trim. When you have the trims off the door just pop in new trees in place of any sad-looking ones. P/N SP10715 is probably one of them. Check with your vendor.

A piece of advice for less contortion while working on the drop glass - fashion a strap or loop some rope to hold the door down to the rear striker pinwhile you sit on the seat facing outward so the bottom of the door is kind of on your lap after you get the trim off. That's assuming you don't like working with it shut nor with it wide open. I don't.

[Rich]

Luckily the window died about 1 inch down so I got some clear shipping tape for if it rains.

Do NOT use clear shipping tape to cover over the drop glass opening. At least don't stick such tape to the metal channel around the drop glass opening.

With any kind of high-tack tape like that you run the risk of removing bits of paint from whatever you apply it to when you pull the tape off later, including the paint on what looks to me like a painted Divider Channel Frame.

[JIMJAM]

Thanks for the replies and the detailed list Rich.
I have done many things to my car myself including replacing the radiator,taking out the interior and adding sound proofing,basic maint etc. I would love to do this myself but with 3 back surgeries and a root canal redone this morning,I would probably regret trying to attempt it.
I have heard that this job is a 9/10 on the frustration index.