Replacing window lift motor tube assy L&R.What to order."While you are theres"

[Rich]

I have heard that this job is a 9/10 on the frustration index.

It's nobody's fave. Count on doing it twice. Per door. The first time just familiarizes you.

Set your expectations low and take it easy at every step, taking lots of breaks if you can.

Be sure to mask or secure or otherwise protect the drop glass at certain points so as not to scratch it. When you learn how to get it out and back in you will have new respect for the blokes who built it. But not for the blokes who designed it.

[Rich]

And the ultimate 'while you are in there' is to see if either of your drop glass assemblies needs to be re-glued to its carrier.

It can look glued and it can BE glued, but it seems that the carrier can move itself to a place it does not belong. You want to see that the drop glass is (still) properly located fore-aft in its carrier. If not then the window lift cannot work correctly and you have a bit more work ahead of you to remedy that. It's easy to check for and it probably has not moved but you want to KNOW that the carrier is still where it belongs on the glass.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?34...ier-Attachment

Somebody might point us to a better reference about the carrier location but this one's decent. Thanks, as always, to Dave.

[JIMJAM]

Its a early vin 1597 and both worked well for awhile. I had the pass side 1/2 down and used the door and sure enough it stopped going all the way to the top. You hear the infamous clicking as the wire comes out of the tube. You have to use your hand and try many times to push up on it and assist the motor but even then its still got a visible gap. I can count the times I have used the windows on 1 hand so no biggie.Then a couple weeks ago the drivers side just stopped dead about a inch and 1/2 down. I hate power anything,windows,rv mirrors seat cause when they are usually a major pita. My friend had a power seat die in the forward postion while he was cleaning his mats. Could not even drive the car home.
Give some some good ol fashion rollup windows any day.
I swear if I could get them up I would simply then disable them.Imo they are not good for much of nothing anyways.
Btw my rv mirrors do not work either. The car is a poster child for Lucas wiring.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Make sure your fuse did not blow. Maybe with a few helpers, one inside and one outside you can help the windows go up fully while you press the window switch.

[JIMJAM]

Hey good to hear from you!
As you know the list of electrical gremlins in 1597 is a long one. I tried all the obvious,switching switches,even hotwiring 12v directly to the motor. I looked at the fuses but figured if it blew both windows would be dead.
I am going to take a much needed roadtrip and visit Ron up in the mountains which in itself is a challenge especially for a guy raised in Key West.I almost puked getting up there and coming down.One hell of a twisting, winding road.
I got a long list so I might be up there as long as he will have me.
Remember the hot start issue that baffled everone for years back in the day?Well the latest on going one is my ignition mystery where the key does nothing on occasion.Totally random but it does always start.Having Ron fix that in itself would be worth the trip.I will try to take some pics of the windows motors being replaced but last time I was up there every pic Ron was sneaking in a middle finger.

[Bikercmbc]

while you have the door panel off, I replaced my screws with SS ones, found at home depot and ace, also lube/grease the door mechanisms cause they can get stuck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoyHekngwqo

[David T]

while you have the door panel off, I replaced my screws with SS ones, found at home depot and ace, also lube/grease the door mechanisms cause they can get stuck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoyHekngwqo

Among the "while you are in there" is to clean and regrease the latches and locking linkage and go over all of the adjustments. You may want to rewind or replace the locking solenoids if they are not working well. Clean and lubricate the lock cylinders and replacing the plastic door handles is a good idea but a bit expensive. Make sure when you reassemble you get the A/C ducts together as best as you can so you do not lose a lot of air inside the doors. You can cover all of the sharp, internal edges of the S/S with duct tape so you don't bleed all over the car so much. Before putting the trim back on test everything thoroughly including the mirrors. While you have the trim off it is a good time to clean it all up. Make sure all of the drain holes in the doors are not plugged up and all of the lights work. Many doors have a whole collection of the wrong screws and bolts in the wrong places. Try to put it all back using the right stuff in the right place. On one car they used sheet metal screws and they kept loosening up. Reuse or replace the rain shield, it helps to keep the water off the trim inside the door.