Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I would not hesitate to use a belt sander but a lot has to do with experience, how much materiel you are removing, and the equipment you are using. The part is difficult to hold properly in a milling machine and if not done properly it can be damaged that way too. Bottom line, the part may be salvagable but if it is very corroded it has to be considered unusable. If damaged by trying to save it by sanding you have lost nothing. Another possible solution could be welding and grinding it. At some point it can cost more to try repairing the part than replacing it. If you remove a LOT of materiel be careful the bolts are not so long as to bottom out before getting the joint tight. You might have to use washers or shorten the bolts. Even if you do not get it perfectly flat it is still worth a try. No biggie if it leaks, just test it BEFORE you put the intake manifold back on. Use some silicone on the "O" rings and Never-Seize on the bolts.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
Again, I'd personally attempt the repair myself before spending money at a machine shop. However, I'd personally try filling the pits and sanding the excess filler down to the existing flat surface as opposed to just removing material. That way, if your attempted repair doesn't work, you still have the option of removing material. If you botch a straight material removal repair, then you don't have a second chance, are SOL, and will have to procure a new part.
http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/
http://www.alumaloy.com/
That high heat epoxy looks interesting. Never saw that before. Looks like something I would try and anyone can do it.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I would hesitate using an epoxy. The heat may soften it enough to leak. Welding is the way to go.
David Teitelbaum
Just machined my Y-pipe to make it usable.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk