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Thread: Transporting w/car trailer

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Transporting w/car trailer

    I'm hoping to close a deal on my first DeLorean soon and plan to transport it on a car trailer. I don't yet have height & ramp length specifics for the trailer I'll be using, but I'd like to start getting prepared for any loading/unloading issues I might be unfamiliar with.

    Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Does a DeLorean usually load easily on a car trailer, or should I plan to extend the ramps?

  2. #2
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    Have a look through this Rich:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36...ters-Hand-Book

    I have never towed my car, thankfully, but one thing to keep in mind is to not tow it facing backwards as the wind can rip your louvres clear off if it grabs it just so.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Have a look through this Rich:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36...ters-Hand-Book

    I have never towed my car, thankfully, but one thing to keep in mind is to not tow it facing backwards as the wind can rip your louvres clear off if it grabs it just so.

    Thanks Jonathan....ripping off louvres would ruin the maiden voyage for sure!

  4. #4
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    I'm hoping to close a deal on my first DeLorean soon and plan to transport it on a car trailer. I don't yet have height & ramp length specifics for the trailer I'll be using, but I'd like to start getting prepared for any loading/unloading issues I might be unfamiliar with.

    Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Does a DeLorean usually load easily on a car trailer, or should I plan to extend the ramps?
    Avoid equipment trailers with a high deck (above the wheels). The ramps will be too steep and you'll damage the spoiler. Low deck trailers don't usually have this issue. U-Haul trailers seem to be OK but are right on the edge of too steep so be careful.

    Another hint - I think the most common body damage we see on cars is dents in the rear quarter next to the tire. From hitting the trailer fender!

    If it has tire tie-downs that's great, if the frame is at all rusty don't trust the frame hooks. Don't hook to lower control arms. Don't use chains (use straps). Make sure the car is facing forward (As mentioned) and is moved forward so that you have enough weight on the tow hitch. It's really scary if you pull a trailer with negative or light hitch weight.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  5. #5
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    I see in that booklet it mentions the car should be put in neutral and the parking brake on or damage could result. That's something I hadn't thought of, but I'm sure my Dad would've covered that one, he good at not overlooking anything. I'll be sure to have wheel blocks & tie-down straps.

    No mention in the booklet of potential clearance issues clearance, so maybe it's a non-issue.

  6. #6
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post

    No mention in the booklet of potential clearance issues clearance, so maybe it's a non-issue.
    The transporter booklet is aimed at the large car-haulers. Not usually a clearance issue on those.

    Most small trailers don't have a problem, it's the guys who show up with trailers intended for farm equipment that have an issue.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Avoid equipment trailers with a high deck (above the wheels). The ramps will be too steep and you'll damage the spoiler. Low deck trailers don't usually have this issue. U-Haul trailers seem to be OK but are right on the edge of too steep so be careful.

    Another hint - I think the most common body damage we see on cars is dents in the rear quarter next to the tire. From hitting the trailer fender!

    If it has tire tie-downs that's great, if the frame is at all rusty don't trust the frame hooks. Don't hook to lower control arms. Don't use chains (use straps). Make sure the car is facing forward (As mentioned) and is moved forward so that you have enough weight on the tow hitch. It's really scary if you pull a trailer with negative or light hitch weight.
    Good info Dave, thanks. I believe the trailer I'm borrowing is similar to the U-Haul two-axle trailers. I'm waiting for a callback to get the deck height & ramp length.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Does the car have Stock Height front springs? If it's been lowered it just makes things more difficult.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  9. #9
    Custom DeLorean Builder Rich W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Good info Dave, thanks. I believe the trailer I'm borrowing is similar to the U-Haul two-axle trailers. I'm waiting for a callback to get the deck height & ramp length.
    Hi Rich,

    To add a few other details to Dave Swingle's comments, one of the easiest ways to check the load position and weight bias on the trailer
    is to measure the trailer from the deck to the ground, at the front and the rear of the trailer, when the trailer is empty, then measure it
    again once you initially position the car on the trailer. The deck should be slightly lower (equally) when loaded, droping an inch or two.

    If the trailer loaded deck measurement is higher in front than the rear measurement, then the tongue weight is to light (move car forward)
    otherwise, if front deck measurement is lower in front than the rear measurement, then the tongue weight is to heavy (move car back).
    If the trailer has surge brakes (like a U-Haul), it should require a 2" ball and a "flat four" light plug connection.

    If the trailer has electric brakes, it may have one of a variety of light plugs, but most likely a RV type (round, 7-connector). The tow vehicle
    should have an electronic brake controller (adjusted differently for trailer loaded or unloaded), depending upon the trailer weight. If you are
    using a larger, enclosed trailer, you may also want to look into using a anti-sway bar or load leveling bars, to keep the trailer in control.

    Later,
    Rich W.

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    towing

    Something else to think of, will the door clear the trailer fender? U-haul trailers usually have fenders that fold away.

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