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Thread: Transporting w/car trailer

  1. #61
    Member Shuttleman's Avatar
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    Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?

  2. #62
    Senior Member eagle-co94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shuttleman View Post
    Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?
    Pretty sure that won't work unless the enclosed trailer has a side door that you can open the door through.
    -James . . . "Life without knowledge is death in disguise." ~ H.P.G.

  3. #63
    Gess dodint's Avatar
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    Maybe.

    7 feet is 84 inches. The car is 73.1 inches wide. The door swings out 11 inches. So a total width of 84.1 inches, and that's if you park exactly on the passenger side wall and do not have to worry about wheel wells inside the trailer. Seems like it's too close of a call to be practical.

    It does beg a different question though, which hinges on your level of comfort in another way. You could simply drive into the enclosed trailer with the door open and leave it open while towing. The car would be inside the whole time so environmental concerns shouldn't be in play. But you'd have to consider the stress on the torsion bar, roof box, door, unplugging the battery so as not to drain it, etc. as you are driving over bumps on the road and the door is moving with that momentum. Is that much different than driving in a parade with the doors open? I've read that it is structurally safe to drive with the doors open at highway speed. But are you willing to be the guinea pig here?

  4. #64
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shuttleman View Post
    Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?
    Does the enclosed trailer have a winch inside at the front to pull the car up the ramps? If so then you could load it without being inside the car. I'm not sure if you would be able to reach in through the window to pull the parking brake, but it may not be necessary if you strap it down really well and chock the tires.

  5. #65
    Member Shuttleman's Avatar
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    I have to do long distances that is why I want to keep it slim and also the fact that wider then 7’ I need mirror extension etc. I have a winch but I wanted to see if someone here had an enclosed trailer and could give me insight before I buy mine.

  6. #66
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    Wow, ever look back on your earliest posts? That's what I'm doing now, and circling back to comment on one of my original posts about transporting.


    So.....I'm planning to transport a non-runner on a flatbed. One of the front tow loops is missing. I'll want it facing-in when I offload it into my garage.

    Looking for opinions on whether or not I should transport it backwards on the flatbed with the louvre secured (and how to secure,) also how to approach the situation of loading it with only one front tow loop intact. If I load it backwards, I'll have both rear tow loops to use for loading, and it'll be facing into my garage for easier offload (my driveway is steep.)

    I also don't want to remove the louvre.

    Thanks!

  7. #67
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Wow, ever look back on your earliest posts? That's what I'm doing now, and circling back to comment on one of my original posts about transporting.


    So.....I'm planning to transport a non-runner on a flatbed. One of the front tow loops is missing. I'll want it facing-in when I offload it into my garage.

    Looking for opinions on whether or not I should transport it backwards on the flatbed with the louvre secured (and how to secure,) also how to approach the situation of loading it with only one front tow loop intact. If I load it backwards, I'll have both rear tow loops to use for loading, and it'll be facing into my garage for easier offload (my driveway is steep.)

    I also don't want to remove the louvre.

    Thanks!
    I would remove the engine cover screens and rope from the louvers through the screen holes and down to the flatbed through the engine compartment. Id also be tempted to wrap it with packing wrap that you can buy on a role at home depot. Wrapping around the entire louver edge and rear bumper.
    Soundkillr was here.

  8. #68
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundkillr View Post
    I would remove the engine cover screens and rope from the louvers through the screen holes and down to the flatbed through the engine compartment. Id also be tempted to wrap it with packing wrap that you can buy on a role at home depot. Wrapping around the entire louver edge and rear bumper.
    If I'm reading correctly, I think it would be better to go around the bumper and right back through the louvers instead of going to the flatbed so that the rope (2 nylon straps) wouldn't slack or tighten too much when the suspension moves/bounces.

  9. #69
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    That helps...thanks!

    I like the wrap idea, I might use that t secure card board over it. I think if the louvres were covered, the risk would be much less.
    Cosmetically, it's a nice non-runner. I want to be careful not to damage anything when I tie/strap things.

    Next, I need to figure out how to tie down the front...the passenger side tow loop is missing.

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

  10. #70
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    If you have to tow "backwards" and don't want to remove the rear louver, you should get cardboard or foam to cover the louver and then cover that with a tarp. As for tie-downs, if the loops are no good and the frame is rotten, go over the frame as best as you can. I once towed a car with the frame so rusty it was difficult to secure it anywhere. I did the best I could. The rear tie downs are the most important so when you stop, the car won't move forward. Ideally you should try to use an enclosed trailer if you can. That way it is safe from view, weather isn't a problem and wind isn't a factor. As for towing backwards to make it easier to unload, I would tow it forwards and then turn the car around once it is on the ground. If you use an enclosed trailer it is difficult to get in and out of the car unless there is a side door that you can open and then open the car door. When I tow cars I never use the parking brake and I leave it in neutral when towing. I will use the parking brake or chocks till it is secured on the trailer or when I am unloading the car but during transport the brake is pretty much useless if it even works. On a car that I don't know I will not trust the parking brake to be effective. You must trust the tie-downs. You must recheck them several times when first towing to make sure they do not slacken and when they do, tighten them up. You should secure anything loose in the car and disconnect the battery. If it is a short trip a dolly is OK but go slow. I have tried backwards and forwards with a dolly, backwards is better, more weight on the dolly but you must do something about the louver. Enclosed is the best way to go but hard to get in and out of the car. Whichever way you do it, go slow and stop often to check everything so you can fix any problem before it causes any damage.
    David Teitelbaum

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