Cold Start Valve

[Silverbullet]

I Agree... It was so weird... the pump did not run. the plug had no pewer... I just hot wired the pump to my battery charger (on Start mode) I could hear it run... got pressure and it started... then, still pressurized. and pluged in... It works now.. just like it re-set something that stopped the power to the fuel pump...

Craig

[DMCMW Dave]

Often just unplugging and reconnecting things cleans the connection enough to work.


Sent from phone

[mike123]

For a good final test of the circuit, go inside the electrical compartment and find the unused connecter that is hanging around in the back of the compartment. Ground the blue/black wire and crank the engine, see if the cold start sprays now (or see if the car starts cold). Don't be tempted just to leave it grounded all the time or you'll flood the engine when starting hot.

When cold, my car takes a long time to start. It was 3-4 seconds with the original Paris Rhone starter, it's like 10 seconds now with the Eagle Premier starter. (It was my mistake to replace the starter, and I regret it, but that is beside the point). If I depress the gas pedal a bit when turning the key, it starts in about 1.5 seconds with the Rhone and 3 seconds with the Eagle Premier, but it takes so much pedal that the RPMs rev up to 4000 or 5000 briefly, which I am assuming is not a good thing to do.

The car starts very quickly when hot, in less than a half second with the Paris, and about 1 second with the Eagle Premier.

When I grounded the blue/black wire in the unused connector, I observed no change in the cold starting behavior. Is it right to assume this means either:
(a) I didn't ground it properly (picture attached in case I am doing something silly and not realizing)
or
(b) the thermo time switch may be OK but the cold start valve isn't spraying well?

Sorry to raise this thread from the dead but figured I'd ask here since this is where I saw the previous helpful advice. Thanks!

PXL_20231119_112350101.MP.jpg

[AugustneverEnds]

Have you observed the cold start valve in action? It's easy, unscrew the two hex head screws, put the CSV in a jar, turn the ignition to position 2, unplug the connector on the WUR and plug it into the CSV and see if it's spraying.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Have you observed the cold start valve in action? It's easy, unscrew the two hex head screws, put the CSV in a jar, turn the ignition to position 2, unplug the connector on the WUR and plug it into the CSV and see if it's spraying.

That test is good for checking the CSV but for testing the full cold start system you need to let it power normally into the jar on a cold cranking. You can just pull the white/yellow wire off the resistor block to prevent engine start.

[AugustneverEnds]

That test is good for checking the CSV but for testing the full cold start system you need to let it power normally into the jar on a cold cranking. You can just pull the white/yellow wire off the resistor block to prevent engine start.

I'm under the impression that mike123 was trying to determine if his CSV was firing well/at all. I figured it's hard to beat actually seeing the CSV spray.

On electrical matters I will always defer to the (Bitsync)master

[mike123]

Have you observed the cold start valve

I have not :-) I am new to all of this, but thanks to the manual I think I can pick it out of a lineup now. I've only ever done simple and purely-electrical stuff so far. This will be my first step into the wonderful world of ICE fluids.

That test is good for checking the CSV but for testing the full cold start system you need to let it power normally into the jar on a cold cranking. You can just pull the white/yellow wire off the resistor block to prevent engine start.

OK! Putting two and two together, it sounds like this is the recommendation, attached. My car is hot right now so I will try it in a few hours.

11-19-2023 testing cold start valve.jpg

[David T]

Typically the problems in the CSV system are electrical in nature. A bad connection, wiring mods, a bad TT switch, the plug on the TT switch forced on incorrectly, that kind of thing. The polarity to the TTS is VERY important. If it is reversed you burn up the switch inside. It is rare to have a non-functioning cold start injector. Sometimes I have seen the tiny "O" ring missing though so be careful and don't lose it when you remove the injector. BTW, you don't have to actually remove it. Just do the plug swap thing and if it starts easier then you know the injector is working. Hard cold starts can be caused by a lot of things. There are several systems that function when the motor is cold to get it started and warmed up quickly. Since you mentioned you changed the starter there is a possibility you did not install it correctly. Two small wires go to it, one is the power to the solenoid and the other sends power to the CSV system during cranking. Make sure you have power to the CSV system ONLY during cranking. Get out your Workshop Manual and go to D:01:10 fig 9.

[mike123]

Test scenario:
- Jumpered the Blue/Black to the Black on the otherwise empty Hot Start Relay.
- Disconnected the white/yellow wire on the ballast resistor.

Nothing comes out of the Cold Start Valve when turning the key.

The right contact in the wires leading to the Cold Start Valve (see pic) was showing 10V when turning the key. When not turning the key, both of those female connectors were grounded.

11-19-2023 Cold Start Valve - grounded both sides.jpg

David T, I think I can rule out a bad thermo time switch as a potential culprit due to jumping the hot start relay. And the new starter is installed properly, it eventually gets things going when cold and immediately gets the car started when hot.

[David T]

Test scenario:
- Jumpered the Blue/Black to the Black on the otherwise empty Hot Start Relay.
- Disconnected the white/yellow wire on the ballast resistor.

Nothing comes out of the Cold Start Valve when turning the key.

The right contact in the wires leading to the Cold Start Valve (see pic) was showing 10V when turning the key. When not turning the key, both of those female connectors were grounded.

11-19-2023 Cold Start Valve - grounded both sides.jpg

David T, I think I can rule out a bad thermo time switch as a potential culprit due to jumping the hot start relay. And the new starter is installed properly, it eventually gets things going when cold and immediately gets the car started when hot.

Apply 12 volts directly to the CSV when the motor is running and the fuel pump has gotten full pressure. Rare for a CSV to not function with a full 12 volts. Easiest way to do it is the plug swap but verify you have 12 volts on the plug to the CPR (Control Pressure Regulator) first. You cannot rule out a bad TTS until you see it working. If you have to, you must "ring out" (test) each wire in the CSV circuit. It is one of the circuits that you see a lot of "creative" mods. That and the fuel pump wiring and the cooling fans. Remember, not only must you see 12 volts on the CSV, you have to see that it also has a good, low resistance path to ground.