Cold Start Valve

[DMCMW Dave]

Ok, this is what I found out...

When I swapped the Gray plug to the CSV, put it in a cup, and started it up, I got gas...

So when it is cold, I should get 12 volts to the Blue plug when I crank, right?

So when cold should the thermmal sensor be open or closed?

Craig

The thermal time switch is a bit strange in terms of connections. There are two pins on it. One is a heater (other end of the heater is ground). The other is the switch (other end also goes to ground). So if you try to read across the terminals you will read the resistance of the heater if the switch is close and will read nothing if the switch is open (hot). If the TTS has been connected backwards, 12V was put across the switch to ground burning it out.

Your cold start switch is good.

For a good final test of the circuit, go inside the electrical compartment and find the unused connecter that is hanging around in the back of the compartment. Ground the blue/black wire and crank the engine, see if the cold start sprays now (or see if the car starts cold). Don't be tempted just to leave it grounded all the time or you'll flood the engine when starting hot.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok, this is what I found out...

When I swapped the Gray plug to the CSV, put it in a cup, and started it up, I got gas...

So when it is cold, I should get 12 volts to the Blue plug when I crank, right?

So when cold should the thermmal sensor be open or closed?

Craig

The CSV will only shoot gas when the starter is cranking. So to test it you need to remove the white/yellow wire on the resistor block so your car will not start.

[jawn101]

I spent a TON of time chasing this problem too and found the issue to be the pins at the bulkhead connector. I believe Dave (Bitsyncmaster) had the same issue on his car. The connections were marginal and carried voltage but not amperage. It took weeks to track it down.

[Silverbullet]

The CSV will only shoot gas when the starter is cranking. So to test it you need to remove the white/yellow wire on the resistor block so your car will not start.

Ok, I disconnected the White/Yellow wire, and cranked, got to power to CSV.... So where on the bulkhead plugs should I look...what color wires...

PS. It did not want to start, I reversed the Blue Plug for the Gray plug, she fired right up... so I need to figure out this power thing.

Craig

[Silverbullet]

The thermal time switch is a bit strange in terms of connections. There are two pins on it. One is a heater (other end of the heater is ground). The other is the switch (other end also goes to ground). So if you try to read across the terminals you will read the resistance of the heater if the switch is close and will read nothing if the switch is open (hot). If the TTS has been connected backwards, 12V was put across the switch to ground burning it out.

Your cold start switch is good.

For a good final test of the circuit, go inside the electrical compartment and find the unused connecter that is hanging around in the back of the compartment. Ground the blue/black wire and crank the engine, see if the cold start sprays now (or see if the car starts cold). Don't be tempted just to leave it grounded all the time or you'll flood the engine when starting hot.

If I ground the Blue/Black Wire and it pumps gas, what does it tell me?

[DMCMW Dave]

If I ground the Blue/Black Wire and it pumps gas, what does it tell me?

That everything is good other than the TTS.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I spent a TON of time chasing this problem too and found the issue to be the pins at the bulkhead connector. I believe Dave (Bitsyncmaster) had the same issue on his car. The connections were marginal and carried voltage but not amperage. It took weeks to track it down.

Yes I had the same problem with the bulkhead connections. Took a long time since the schematic did not match what my harness really is. There is a jumper on back side of two bulkhead connectors that was my problem, it read about 50 ohms pin to pin.

[Silverbullet]

Ok, I found the plug on the TTC had pulled out, put it back... but Now... I got no power to the fuel pump... I checked the plug and it was dead... I hot wired the fuel pump and it starts up... the 20 amp #7 fuse is good...
So after it started... I connected the fuel pump back up... and It starts and runs fine...WTF...
And... Thanks

Craig

[David T]

Ok, I found the plug on the TTC had pulled out, put it back... but Now... I got no power to the fuel pump... I checked the plug and it was dead... I hot wired the fuel pump and it starts up... the 20 amp #7 fuse is good...
So after it started... I connected the fuel pump back up... and It starts and runs fine...WTF...
And... Thanks

Craig

I hate it when you seem to "fix" a problem like that. Everything seems fine till it bites you again because you never really found and fixed the root cause. It could just be a dirty connection in a plug. It could also be a connector that backed out and now instead of being inserted into it's twin it is just touching. Go over EVERYTHING that you touched. Visually inspect it again till you feel certain you are not overlooking anything. Look for corrosion and signs of overheating.

[jawn101]

I hate it when you seem to "fix" a problem like that. Everything seems fine till it bites you again because you never really found and fixed the root cause. It could just be a dirty connection in a plug. It could also be a connector that backed out and now instead of being inserted into it's twin it is just touching. Go over EVERYTHING that you touched. Visually inspect it again till you feel certain you are not overlooking anything. Look for corrosion and signs of overheating.

Agreed - what you've found is not a fix, it's just a guarantee that you'll have the problem again down the line - probably after you've forgotten everything said in this thread and need to start over. Electrical problems don't just go away...